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Pillage the Village
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 2.9 from 54
votes
Routes in Village Wall
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Bridge Tender S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Village People S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Pillage the Village S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Village Idiot S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Disco Cowboy S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | Sport, 90 ft (27 m) |
| FA: | Todd Offenbacher, Zach Fleicher |
| Page Views: | 2,878 total · 27/month |
| Shared By: | Refuge Jared on Sep 11, 2016 |
| Admins: | Lurk Er, Justin Johnsen |
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Access Issue: Partial seasonal raptor closure
Details
This area is known for seasonal falcon nesting.
While signs are posted in the area, do not hike or climb routes that near the top of the crag. This includes any multipitch route, most of Armory Wall, and may include Village Wall, The Torture Chamber, and North Castle.
If you see a raptor diving or hear loud bird calls, you may be too close to the nest; please go somewhere else to climb. Disruption of falcons may keep them from nesting and could result in seasonal closure of the climbing area.
While signs are posted in the area, do not hike or climb routes that near the top of the crag. This includes any multipitch route, most of Armory Wall, and may include Village Wall, The Torture Chamber, and North Castle.
If you see a raptor diving or hear loud bird calls, you may be too close to the nest; please go somewhere else to climb. Disruption of falcons may keep them from nesting and could result in seasonal closure of the climbing area.
Description
WARNING: Some routes on this wall are just long enough to lower your partner with a 60 meter rope. Mind your positioning as belayer (stand close to the wall) and TIE A STOPPER KNOT to avoid the end of the rope slipping through the belay device and dropping your partner as they lower to the bottom.
The rock here is mostly good, but are a few loose blocks; test holds before trusting them and yell "ROCK" "like someone's gonna die" if anything comes down. Even quarter size rocks seem like they've come out of a slingshot when they fall off Village Wall because of its length and angle.
Juggy vertical start with plenty of hold options. Then "hike" over somewhat dirty low angle section to dead vertical 5.8+ crux with solid holds--nicely protected and a fun lead. Good technique will make it feel easier; thrutching can make it a bit awkward or exhausting. Finish at mussy hooks. Lower off.
The rock here is mostly good, but are a few loose blocks; test holds before trusting them and yell "ROCK" "like someone's gonna die" if anything comes down. Even quarter size rocks seem like they've come out of a slingshot when they fall off Village Wall because of its length and angle.
Juggy vertical start with plenty of hold options. Then "hike" over somewhat dirty low angle section to dead vertical 5.8+ crux with solid holds--nicely protected and a fun lead. Good technique will make it feel easier; thrutching can make it a bit awkward or exhausting. Finish at mussy hooks. Lower off.
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