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[Redacted]

5.13b, Trad, 40 ft (12 m),  Avg: 2 from 2 votes
FA: 1995, Dave Sowerby
Oregon > Portland & The… > Broughton Bluff > (8) Berlin Wall

Description

This line tackles the large Berlin Wall overhang, with some fun, precise, and quite dirty climbing. Doesn't match the quality of Closet Nazi, but worth a go.

A cam or a very long stick clip is recommended for the start.

Location

Middle of Berlin Wall, right of Twist and Crawl. Look for the large overhang, and start on the slab crack.

Protection

5 bolts, 1" cam, lower-off chains

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

bad photo, awesome move!
[Hide Photo] bad photo, awesome move!

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Dan Bookless
Bend, OR
[Hide Comment] instead of stick clipping the first bolt, use a BD 0.5 to protect the start for extra points Apr 12, 2020
Greg Lee
  5.13b
[Hide Comment] Pretty fun, but extraordinarily short. The hard climbing is shorter than most boulder problems.

The climbing was quite cryptic, but once I figured out beta it felt about the same difficulty as Warlock (V8). To further Dan's point, it would be quite bold to climb the start without protection, mostly because the landing is terrible, and you need a long stick to hit the first bolt. Jan 9, 2021
Billcoe
Pacific Northwet
[Hide Comment] I've been thinking about naming my next project "[Redacted]". I can't believe Dave beat me to that one as well. Crap. Jan 10, 2021
[Hide Comment] Yes Bill, behind the curve as usual :-) It does seem that every crag has one, but this crag has two! As an answer to Greg - there is no low bolt because it takes a piece of pro that even a sport climber should be able to place. Indeed short, but you have to work for it. Good job on the send. I keep waiting for you to tick "Tarzan" :-) I'm not sure why the powers that be decided that "Genocide" was in some way a problem name. Jan 11, 2021
Greg Lee
  5.13b
[Hide Comment] Yeah I used a cam. I think it's fine, but maybe this climb should be listed as mixed?

Tarzan needs some cleaning. Haven't gotten around to it, but it's on the list. Jan 11, 2021