PRINT: Rock Climb Tacos Diablos, Little Cottonwood Canyon

Tacos Diablos

5.13a, Sport, 30 ft (9 m),

Avg: 3.5 from 28 votes
FA: FA: Tyler Phillips 2005 FFA: Brendan Nicholson 2007
Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Little Cottonwo… > Albion Basin > Tacos Diablos Boulder

Access Issue: Please respect this beautiful area. Stay on established trails and do not trample any vegetation Details

Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing

June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.

The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.

Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.

Read More:

saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…

SLCA and AF recreational leased area on LDS Church land

Description

Center line on the Tacos Diablo boulder. Harder than it looks for the short length.

Protection

4 bolts. Currently all but the first is fixed but the dog bones look to be a mix of old and new, might be worth replacing but you'll need a wrench for the quicklinks.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Summer views

wrkn it

Night climbing is what it takes some time.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Taylor Roy
Salt Lake City, UT

5.13a

Love this thing. It's a perfect mini route. Tough underclings down low, then some burly sidepulls and underclings to decent rails. Then, a few more thin edges and then some funky crack to the top. Not much rest. Amazing moves, and setting. Rock is pretty good too! Plus we were wearing our down jackets in July. No fixed gear today. Jul 1, 2018

Charlie S
NV

3rd bolt could use replacing. It's currently in crooked and flexes out of the oddly shaped hole it was forced into. Aug 11, 2018

Brent Barghahn
Flagstaff, AZ

This rock climb has freshie glue in bolts now Aug 28, 2018

Kevin Lockwood
SLC, UT

5.13a

Thanks Brent for the glue-ins.

A nice short & stout climb. It feels like 3 boulder problems stacked on top of one another, I'd say 12d/13a depending on height. The big foot rail at the start is flexing and will probably fall off soon if it's not reinforced.

I also like to have a long draw on the fourth bolt to help with clipping off the rail. Sep 5, 2018

tenesmus

lol, "I'd say 12d/13a depending on height" = 13c if you're tall and heavy and can't crimp worth a crap like me. Sep 14, 2018

Matthew Conn
Salt Lake City, UT

5.13a

Sadly this route has seen some decay of the lower crux holds. As of 09/07/21 much of the foot rail has fallen off and more importantly for the already hard crux, the key undercling hold is no longer there. I’m sure someone can still do it, but there really isn’t much there. Sep 8, 2021