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Caucasian Eyes

5.11a, Trad, 60 ft (18 m),  Avg: 3.2 from 13 votes
FA: Andre Ike, Brad White (2006)
International > N America > Canada > British Columbia > Squamish > Stawamus Chief > Bulletheads > Bulletheads North
Warning Access Issue: SIGNIFICANT ROCK FALL CLOSURES - UPDATED Feb 29th 2024 DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: Camping DetailsDrop down

Description

This is an excellent route that offers incredible position up the arete just right of Eurasian Eyes.
From the start of Turkey ledge, climb into a tricky flare (bolt protected) and work your way up until reaching a nice hand crack. Somewhat moderate climbing leads up and slightly left before a pumpy layback finish before the chains.

Location

Hike up the South Gully (fixed ropes).

Protection

A single rack should do it, but a second #2 camalot might be handy

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Quite nice holds on a steep angle up the final layback. Strenuous to clip the chains.
[Hide Photo] Quite nice holds on a steep angle up the final layback. Strenuous to clip the chains.
The wide start is protected by a bolt.
[Hide Photo] The wide start is protected by a bolt.
Viewing the start of Caucasian Eyes from the side.
[Hide Photo] Viewing the start of Caucasian Eyes from the side.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Bob Smith 1
Denver, CO
 
[Hide Comment] The whole giant flake above the flare flexed today. I quickly backed off. It might be good to avoid this route. Jun 26, 2022
[Hide Comment] The flake does in fact wiggle with a cam - but is easily passed and your pro goes right after the flake … great route - bring ascenders to make your life easy up the gully ! Jul 19, 2022
Matt Gowie
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] Yeah, getting up the gully is a bit of a PITA. I like Bryan's suggestion to bring ascenders, but also be sure to bring an ATC to rapp. There is a good bit of loose rock and rapping one by one down the fixed lines (as long as they look good) felt the safest to my party when we were up there. Sick location though! Sep 13, 2024