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Routes in Pacific Ocean Cliff
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Dirty Thoughts T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Dizzy Dial S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Whale Nation S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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California Coast A2 PG13 |
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California Coastline (Free) TR 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Superstitious S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Baby Grey Whale TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Native Rights T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 932 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Nick Black on Aug 21, 2016 |
| Admins: | Rick Shull, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
Steep, left leaning, tips and fingercrack. The name came from the amount of dirt that filled this awesome route, which took hours of scrubbing to clean! Starts with super technical, funky laybacking up a sloping ramp to reach the base of the crack, followed by long lockoffs between solid locks with bad feet. When you reach where the crack becomes filled with bushes, step right on to a well protected face topped by a cruxy bulge. Rap off.
Protection
Slings and draws, plus BD .2-1, doubles/triples in .3-.5. Some of the best, most solid pro at Patrick's Point, but fiddly to place. I recommend sewing this up. As with any sandstone route with small gear, especially since the crux is close to the ground, it's better to be safe than sorry.
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