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Routes in Section 4
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Black Hole S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Blast in Black S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Crimps and Slopers S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Double Roof Ballet S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Flight Time S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Gateway S,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Growing Pains S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Hardman S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Left Of Time S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Left Squared S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Little Bugger S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Mr. Aidman's Free S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Quarryisms S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Quickdraw S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Saharan Dust S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Short Face S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Unknown S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Sport, 35 ft (11 m) |
| FA: | Unknown. Current iteration: J. O'Connell and Connor StClair 7/16. |
| Page Views: | 1,339 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Johnny O on Aug 19, 2016 |
| Admins: | Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier |
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Access Issue: Post Hurricane Helene Accessibility of Crags
Details
The CCC has created the list linked below of accessible and inaccessible climbing areas with some caveats. If you decide to head out for a day of climbing, please do not attempt to go to those marked ‘inaccessible’. Please note that all areas in WNC will have extensive tree damage and if you head out, use extra caution for all the trees above, especially on a windy day. Rock fall potential is also highest after a big weather event. Please use extra caution while climbing and prepare to self rescue if injured. Injury response time will be greatly limited for any injury currently, especially for a remote injury. Cell service is limited in all areas. Parking at accessible crags in the WNC/ Upstate SC region will likely be challenging. If the parking lot is full, go to a different area and do not park illegally or in a road. Make a plan B before leaving your house. Expect road detours on the way to the crag. NCdrive.gov updates road closures. Once you get to the crag, expect many trees blocking access trails and of course, come volunteer with the CCC to help us bring our climbing areas back!
carolinaclimbers.org/conten…
carolinaclimbers.org/conten…
Description
This route starts to the right of Gateway and uses part of what was once Gateway Direct, which no longer exists. Start directly below the first bolt on easy rock. At the second bolt, smear up onto the large block and head for the third bolt. Head straight up for the top of the block, trying to avoid grabbing the edge out left. On top, near the wall is a nice finger crack, or just mantle. Climb straight up the wall past the fourth bolt to another mantle. The rings are not in an ideal location so it is better to just rappel back down. Not recommended for top-roping or lowering, unless you watch the edge closely. I did rappel the line over a dozen times and had no issues.
History can always be a tricky issue. Steve Pope did tell me that they didn't climb this line, although it is possible they did and he just didn't remember because it is a little easy and nothing special. We did solo Gateway Direct, which was easier and finished much further left, back in 2010. As far as the current, bolted sport line, July 2016.
History can always be a tricky issue. Steve Pope did tell me that they didn't climb this line, although it is possible they did and he just didn't remember because it is a little easy and nothing special. We did solo Gateway Direct, which was easier and finished much further left, back in 2010. As far as the current, bolted sport line, July 2016.
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