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Routes in Ishinca Valley
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Ishinca, 5530m Northwest Slopes WI2- Easy Snow |
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Karma de los Cóndores T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Ranrapalca Northeast Face T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a AI2-3 M3 Steep Snow R |
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Ranrapalca, 6162m, North Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b AI3 M3 |
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Southeast Slopes to East Ridge, Urus Este 5420mts. 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a Easy Snow |
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Tocllaraju Northwest Ridge AI3-4 Steep Snow |
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Tocllaraju West Direct AI2-3 Steep Snow |
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Tribal Passage T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b C2 R |
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Urus Central (South Face) AI2-3 M2+ Steep Snow R |
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Urus Este Standard Route Variation T AI2-3 Steep Snow |
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Urus Este, West Face M5 Steep Snow |
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| Type: | Ice, Snow, Alpine, 8000 ft (2424 m) |
| FA: | W Brecht & H Schweizer (1939) |
| Page Views: | 4,973 total · 47/month |
| Shared By: | Sarah Meiser on Aug 19, 2016 · Updates |
| Admins: | Tony Yeary, MAKB |
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Description
Tocllaraju is a popular mountaineering objective in Ishinca Valley, one of the most frequented areas in the Cordillera Blanca. It is the most climbed 6,000 meter peak in the range. The northwest ridge is the standard route to the summit.
From high camp plod toward the base of the northwest ridge. Sometimes it is possible to shortcut and gain the ridge about 1/3 of the way up by climbing 45 degree snow slopes through seracs. This variation saves some time if in condition.
Once on the ridge follow it to the summit pyramid. This final obstacle is brief but fairly difficult, earning the route its D rating. Conditions vary widely. Most route descriptions describe two pitches of 55 degree snow and ice including two bergschrund crossings. In July 2016 (which was very dry) the route did an exposed traverse left on ice and rotten snow to avoid the higher bergshrund. Reaching the true summit also required a substantial crevasse jump at this time.
From high camp plod toward the base of the northwest ridge. Sometimes it is possible to shortcut and gain the ridge about 1/3 of the way up by climbing 45 degree snow slopes through seracs. This variation saves some time if in condition.
Once on the ridge follow it to the summit pyramid. This final obstacle is brief but fairly difficult, earning the route its D rating. Conditions vary widely. Most route descriptions describe two pitches of 55 degree snow and ice including two bergschrund crossings. In July 2016 (which was very dry) the route did an exposed traverse left on ice and rotten snow to avoid the higher bergshrund. Reaching the true summit also required a substantial crevasse jump at this time.
Location
Approach via Ishinca Valley. I highly recommend taking advantage of the readily available burro support to and from Ishinca Base Camp. In 2016 we paid $9/person each way. Why would you not?!
Parties typically use one camp above base camp to climb Tocllaraju. In years past this camp was on the glacier below the west face. In 2016 it was on the moraine at 16,700 ft. I suspect this is due to the fact that the glaciers are rapidly receding.
Parties typically use one camp above base camp to climb Tocllaraju. In years past this camp was on the glacier below the west face. In 2016 it was on the moraine at 16,700 ft. I suspect this is due to the fact that the glaciers are rapidly receding.
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