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Routes in The Texas Wall / West Velvet Wall
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Ancient Futures T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Black Mamba T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Great Expectations T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Lone Star T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Plein Air T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Shuffle, The T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13 |
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Texanephrine T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Texas Hold 'Em T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Texas Tower Direct T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Tri Tip T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X |
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Twixt Cradle and Stone T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Velvet Revolver T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Velvet Tongue, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Velveteen Rabbit, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Wax Cracks T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Wax Cracks Extension (Open Project) T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Yellow Rose of Texas T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, 450 ft (136 m), 5 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Ancient Pterodactyls |
| Page Views: | 1,711 total · 17/month |
| Shared By: | George Daniel Urioste on Aug 18, 2016 |
| Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc, Justin Johnsen |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
An arching corner system made of desert varnish. Rock quality is decent with some potato chips. Fun climb in all requiring jamming, crimping, chimney, and exploration.
Pitch #0: Climb the 5.7 100 foot chimney (first pitch of Twixt Cradle and Stone) in the left-facing corner, located about 100 feet upstream from the start of Epinephrine. Walk and scramble westward on the big ledge until you are standing under an impressive arch which is about 300 feet high.
Pitch #1: Begin climbing on ledges that traverse leftward and up to the left edge of the arch. A two bolt belay stance is found here. (5.6, 60 feet) Alternatively, one may climb straight up to this station (5.8, 60 feet)
Pitch #2: Jam or face climb within the chimney and offwidth to a bolted belay stance. (5.10, 100 feet)
Pitch #3: Climb squeeze chimney and offwidth to a bolted station with a foot stance.(5.9, 60 feet)
Pitch #4: Continue up the corner about 15 feet to a ledge which allows very delicate moves left (via 2 pro bolts). Go straight up exposed arête,surely butt puckering with crunchy holds and a couple pro bolts. From here follow either of two options: Option 1. step left onto unstable-looking diving board, use long slings to reduce drag, and launch onto the very steep face above. After a few moves up and left, pro is possible. In about 20-30 feet (up and left slightly), a bolted rap/belay station is reached. Option 2 goes to the right of option 1; climb right, along the edge of the arching roof (contrived but thrilling), exposed and frightening although it is well protected by bolts. After the overhanging arch levels, go straight up towards the big ledge which is the top of pitch #6. (5.9+, Option #1 75 feet, Option #2 140 feet)
Pitch #5: Go straight up the fragile crack to a large comfortable ledge with a bolted rap/belay station. (5.9 fragile, 65 feet)
Pitch #0: Climb the 5.7 100 foot chimney (first pitch of Twixt Cradle and Stone) in the left-facing corner, located about 100 feet upstream from the start of Epinephrine. Walk and scramble westward on the big ledge until you are standing under an impressive arch which is about 300 feet high.
Pitch #1: Begin climbing on ledges that traverse leftward and up to the left edge of the arch. A two bolt belay stance is found here. (5.6, 60 feet) Alternatively, one may climb straight up to this station (5.8, 60 feet)
Pitch #2: Jam or face climb within the chimney and offwidth to a bolted belay stance. (5.10, 100 feet)
Pitch #3: Climb squeeze chimney and offwidth to a bolted station with a foot stance.(5.9, 60 feet)
Pitch #4: Continue up the corner about 15 feet to a ledge which allows very delicate moves left (via 2 pro bolts). Go straight up exposed arête,surely butt puckering with crunchy holds and a couple pro bolts. From here follow either of two options: Option 1. step left onto unstable-looking diving board, use long slings to reduce drag, and launch onto the very steep face above. After a few moves up and left, pro is possible. In about 20-30 feet (up and left slightly), a bolted rap/belay station is reached. Option 2 goes to the right of option 1; climb right, along the edge of the arching roof (contrived but thrilling), exposed and frightening although it is well protected by bolts. After the overhanging arch levels, go straight up towards the big ledge which is the top of pitch #6. (5.9+, Option #1 75 feet, Option #2 140 feet)
Pitch #5: Go straight up the fragile crack to a large comfortable ledge with a bolted rap/belay station. (5.9 fragile, 65 feet)
Location
Located on the Westside of Black Velvet on a wall called West Velvet Wall with many fun climbs including Velvet Revolver and Twixt. This climb requires a bit of a walk along ledges and starts off 100 feet upstream of the start of Epi. where you will find the obvious white sandstone chimney.
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