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Routes in Colchuck Peak
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Colchuck Glacier 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a Easy Snow |
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Holsten-Hilden WI3 M6 Steep Snow |
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North Buttress Couloir Steep Snow |
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Northeast Buttress T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Northeast Couloir Steep Snow |
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| Type: | Mixed, Ice, Snow, Alpine, 1600 ft (485 m), Grade III |
| FA: | Jens Holsten and Dan Hilden, Jan 2011 |
| Page Views: | 2,099 total · 21/month |
| Shared By: | JeffWright Wright on Aug 11, 2016 |
| Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan |
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Description
On the NE Face of Colchuck Peak, between the Northeast Couloir and the North Buttress Couloir, is a "Hidden Couloir" (as Fred Beckey refers to it in Cascade Alpine Guide, Vol 1). Just below this couloir is 2x 60m pitches of perfect AI3 ice, the start of the route. The Holsten-Hilden continues up and left from the base of the Hidden Couloir on difficult mixed ground to the summit. Descend the East Route (standard route) to Colchuck Glacier.
In April 2016, Jeff and Priti Wright climbed this same AI3 ice start and continued up the Hidden Couloir (steep snow), briefly crossing the North Buttress (easy) to gain the NW Face (steep snow) of Colchuck Peak to the Summit. This linkup of the the Holsten-Hilden start and the N Buttress is a fantastic route with 120m of sustained AI3 ice and steep snow, and should be considered an accessible, attractive, moderate ice route along with Gerber-Sink and Triple Couloirs.
Additional Links:
-Original TR of Holsten-Hilden (with full route description) cascadeclimbers.com/forum/u…
-TR of Holsten-Hilden/N Buttress linkup cascadeclimbers.com/forum/u…
In April 2016, Jeff and Priti Wright climbed this same AI3 ice start and continued up the Hidden Couloir (steep snow), briefly crossing the North Buttress (easy) to gain the NW Face (steep snow) of Colchuck Peak to the Summit. This linkup of the the Holsten-Hilden start and the N Buttress is a fantastic route with 120m of sustained AI3 ice and steep snow, and should be considered an accessible, attractive, moderate ice route along with Gerber-Sink and Triple Couloirs.
Additional Links:
-Original TR of Holsten-Hilden (with full route description) cascadeclimbers.com/forum/u…
-TR of Holsten-Hilden/N Buttress linkup cascadeclimbers.com/forum/u…
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