Type: | Sport, 110 ft (33 m) |
FA: | Lindsey Tjian and Joe Kinder, July 2016 |
Page Views: | 1,619 total · 16/month |
Shared By: | D F on Jul 28, 2016 |
Admins: | Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
Locate the long, left-angling hand crack that cuts through the bulging rock on the far, far right side of The Arsenal. The top is shared with Turtle Power, but the start to Bobby Brown is about 100 feet to the right of that route. Climb straight up from a pile of rubble to gain the crack, then jam, span, and heel hook past several mini-cruxes. By the time you reach a good rest under the big roof, you might have gobies on your hands and have forgotten that you are climbing at Rifle, but you are! Attack the imposing roof with lots of air under your ass, and don't let up until the chains are in your face!
The crack is a little dirty, but it has already been cleaning up well from traffic.
The name, I presume, is inspired by a hairdo sported by Bobby Brown back in the day. Fitting.
The crack is a little dirty, but it has already been cleaning up well from traffic.
The name, I presume, is inspired by a hairdo sported by Bobby Brown back in the day. Fitting.
Protection
There are a handful of permadraws on the final bolts going to the anchors. I believe the first ascentionists left draws on the rest of the bolts, too. So for now, consider the route fully equipped. Otherwise, the route may require between 12-15 draws. On a side note, the bolts are well-spaced, and because the route overhangs and traverses so much, there are some spots that might be damn near impossible to get back on if you fall. It's a funky, exciting route!
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