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Washington
> Northwest Region
> Hwy 20 & N Casc…
> N Cascades
> Boston Basin
> Forbidden Peak
Northwest Face
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 3.9 from 21
votes
Routes in Forbidden Peak
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East Ridge Direct T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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North Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Mod. Snow |
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Northwest Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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West Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Mod. Snow |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 1200 ft (364 m), 7 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Fred Beckey and Ed Cooper on July 15, 1959 |
| Page Views: | 12,289 total · 120/month |
| Shared By: | Jeff Hebert on Jul 27, 2016 · Updates |
| Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan |
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Description
Fred Beckey calls it "an exceptional climb of purity." Blake Herrington says "The Northwest Face is Forbidden's best route."
Once at the base of the route (see approach beta below), solo or simul-climb steep, somewhat loose 4th to low-5th class for about 500 feet to the start of a knife-edge section.
Cross the knife-edge ridge at 5.6 and then up through the crux (staying true to the ridge and stemming as well as crack climbing) at 5.8.
Once the ridge blends into the face, head up and left through a wide chimney feature where the rock steepens and then continue up low-5th to 5.6 terrain on good rock to the summit.
Descend the West Ridge or East Ledges.
Once at the base of the route (see approach beta below), solo or simul-climb steep, somewhat loose 4th to low-5th class for about 500 feet to the start of a knife-edge section.
Cross the knife-edge ridge at 5.6 and then up through the crux (staying true to the ridge and stemming as well as crack climbing) at 5.8.
Once the ridge blends into the face, head up and left through a wide chimney feature where the rock steepens and then continue up low-5th to 5.6 terrain on good rock to the summit.
Descend the West Ridge or East Ledges.
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