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Routes in 3. Madigan Area
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Brown School T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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DLM Memorial Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Forist Grump T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Happy Birthday T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Madigan S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Nibroc T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Stone Dust Torture T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
| Type: | Sport, 200 ft (61 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 2,402 total · 23/month |
| Shared By: | Robert Hall on Jul 26, 2016 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
Description
This is climb#5 in the "guide-pamphlet". Although listed as a "sport" climb, there are gear placements.
A lovely 2 pitch climb with bolted anchors. Start on the clean face ( 5.5-5.6 PG-13/R, groundfall) directly behind the broken tree; alternately, scramble up left and move back right on the face to the first bolt.
P1 - Six bolts to an anchor. I'd say the crux is up around bolt #5 or so. Maybe I missed the easiest way, but thought it closer to 5.7 than 5.6.
P2 - After some thin climbing directly above the belay, up and left-ish following 5 bolts to a double bolt anchor.
Descent - From the P2 anchors rap to the Forist Gump anchors and then to the ground. (Even a 70m will probably not make it back to the P1 anchors on Madigan unless it's cut quite long.)
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