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Routes in Lankin Dome
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Cowboy Route T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a |
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Crevasse Route T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Heart of Stone T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Mercury Rising T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Planet Earth T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Red Nations T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Running Out of Blow T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Sky Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Star Jumper S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Tree Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Venus and Mars T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 50 ft (15 m) |
| FA: | Nadiak / Herder 2016 |
| Page Views: | 1,130 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Anus Herder on Jul 10, 2016 |
| Admins: | Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
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Access Issue: Sticky situation
Details
This place is desolate and dangerous WYO desert with very few amenities nearby, and zero assistance should you find your pretty-little-self in a bind.
The people are ornery and the land is mean. I don't recommend coming here at all. If the rednecks, miners, roughnecks vagabonds or land doesn't get ya, some dehydrated whacked-out windblown sunbeaten climber just might. . . . Sweetwater Rocks and adjacent areas require LOW-profiles and LOTS of respect and consideration. Keep all fences/gates as you found them. Do not build fires. Adhere to all posted signs. Do not drive off of existing paths (roads). Do not let your dog run around (chances are great that it'll be shot, bitten, trampled or fed upon). Do not take anything from this land. . . and do not leave anything. Good BLM quads are essential (make sure they're up to date). Granite Mtns (Sweetwater) area closures are adjustable and are done so via ranchers and BLM officiales. Great tracts of this area are privately owned; meaning that they are always closed. For example: Lankin Dome BLM as of last year was closed 04-30 thru 06-31 for public AND private lands; between 03-01 thru 04-31 it was closed on private land. So, sometimes private easements are opened, and sometimes they aren't. . . same with public lands; oh, and mining claims too! Pay particular attention to any signage and postings.
The people are ornery and the land is mean. I don't recommend coming here at all. If the rednecks, miners, roughnecks vagabonds or land doesn't get ya, some dehydrated whacked-out windblown sunbeaten climber just might. . . . Sweetwater Rocks and adjacent areas require LOW-profiles and LOTS of respect and consideration. Keep all fences/gates as you found them. Do not build fires. Adhere to all posted signs. Do not drive off of existing paths (roads). Do not let your dog run around (chances are great that it'll be shot, bitten, trampled or fed upon). Do not take anything from this land. . . and do not leave anything. Good BLM quads are essential (make sure they're up to date). Granite Mtns (Sweetwater) area closures are adjustable and are done so via ranchers and BLM officiales. Great tracts of this area are privately owned; meaning that they are always closed. For example: Lankin Dome BLM as of last year was closed 04-30 thru 06-31 for public AND private lands; between 03-01 thru 04-31 it was closed on private land. So, sometimes private easements are opened, and sometimes they aren't. . . same with public lands; oh, and mining claims too! Pay particular attention to any signage and postings.
Access Issue: Close gates after passing through
Details
For respect of the local ranchers, always close the gates after passing through. Approach from the Nolan Pocket side is usually not restricted but there are closures for grazing leases on the Lankin Gap side from March-June. Be polite and non-confrontive to ranchers.
Description
A splitter handcrack as seen from the Cowboy Downclimb. Starts with some face moves on a flake and jugs before moving into a flaring hands and fists crack. This climb is a little less than vertical and a fun lap after coming off the dome! We were headed out of the area and had to do a quick lap up it.. too splitter to pass up!
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