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Sanitary Engineer
5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 1.3 from 3 votes
Type: | Trad, 85 ft (26 m) |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 759 total · 7/month |
Shared By: | Bryan G on Jun 30, 2016 |
Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Please visit climbingyosemite.com/ and nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
This climb is worth doing, and it's one of the easiest routes at Pub San. It was maybe retrobolted for a short while (the Supertopo "TR and Sport" book shows it being full bolted), but most of these retrobolts have been removed. The bolts that remain are part of an 11c which is a mixture of this route and the crack system to the right (which was originally Indisposed - 5.10 sandbag).
Start the same as the unnamed 11c (but don't clip the bolt... or do...but it's not necessary). Go straight up to the left side of a big flake with a black streak running down the wall. Climb to the top of the flake and get up on a shelf, then climb through a steep chimney slot (another bolt to skip) and continue up the jamcrack. When it thins out, step left into another crack and handjam to the anchor. Finishes just to the right of Afterburner. You can just barely lower off with a 50m.
Start the same as the unnamed 11c (but don't clip the bolt... or do...but it's not necessary). Go straight up to the left side of a big flake with a black streak running down the wall. Climb to the top of the flake and get up on a shelf, then climb through a steep chimney slot (another bolt to skip) and continue up the jamcrack. When it thins out, step left into another crack and handjam to the anchor. Finishes just to the right of Afterburner. You can just barely lower off with a 50m.
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