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> Hwy 20 & N Casc…
> N Cascades
> Washington Pass
> Liberty Bell Group
> N Early Winter Spire
Chockstone Route
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British Easy Snow
Avg: 1.7 from 38
votes
Routes in North Early Winter Spire
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Northwest Corner (a.k.a. Boving-Pollack Route) T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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West Face, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Labor Pains T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Chockstone Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Easy Snow |
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Early Winter Couloir T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b AI2-3 M4+ A1 |
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Flycatcher Buttress T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, Snow, Alpine, 600 ft (182 m), 6 pitches |
| FA: | Dick Widrig, Pete Schoening, and Wes Grande 1950 |
| Page Views: | 3,056 total · 28/month |
| Shared By: | Joe Manning on Jun 28, 2016 |
| Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan |
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Description
This route ascends the left side of the enormous chockstones between the North and South Early Winter Spires before taking easy and slightly loose chimney weaknesses to the summit plateau. The first pitch climbs a low angle slab with layback crack (best to scramble), followed by a 200 foot section of walking up the gulley (snow in early season) towards the giant chockstone. A pitch of 5.7 bypasses the chockstone on the left. Belay at a selection of boulders, or the rappel bolts on the chockstone. The couloir continues above (moderately steep snow, ice axe/crampons in early season, rubble walking mid-late summer) to another chockstone, which is passed on the left up a golden 5.0 ramp. Belay at rappel bolts, or continue right to belay higher, then up gulley/ 5.4 chimney systems to the summit plateau for ~2 pitches (easily simul-climbed, much loose rock). The summit is 3rd/4th class scramble from the top of the chimney system.
Location
Locate the route between the North and South Early Winter Spires on the west side of the formations.
Route climbs up towards and around the giant chockstone.
Rappel starts 30m down and skiers right of where the route tops out. 4 bolted rap stations with 60m rope and one tree rap down the 5.0 slab at the start.
Route climbs up towards and around the giant chockstone.
Rappel starts 30m down and skiers right of where the route tops out. 4 bolted rap stations with 60m rope and one tree rap down the 5.0 slab at the start.
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