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The Syllable
5.8 PG13,
Trad, 480 ft (145 m), 3 pitches,
Avg: 3 from 1
vote
FA: Rick Sylvester & Sibylle Hechtel 11/71
California
> Yosemite NP
> Yosemite Valley
> Valley S Side
> P. Cathedral Area
> 5. Higher Cathedral Rock
Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Please visit
climbingyosemite.com/ and
nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at
nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
Haven't met anyone that knows this route, let alone someone that has climbed it. It's a gem with some fun/unique moves. Noting that there's a sticker bush growing in the first pitch chimney suggests the lack of traffic.
P1 has a steep section just before a great tunnel-through behind the distinct detached flake. This is the crux and I'm not sure is a part of the 5.8 rating. Belay shortly after flake. P2 starts with a tight squeeze or some nimble face traversing/stemming to avoid the squeeze - PG gear here.
Location
One crack system or ~40' uphill from the Sequel. If you top out in 3-4 pitches you can hike off climber's left. It looks like if you stop after 2 pitches you can possibly rappel Remain in the Light
Protection
Single to #6 BD worked well for me.
[Hide Photo] Kat emerging from behind the flake after the beyond vertical off-width entry (pretty sure this is not 5.8!)
[Hide Photo] Middle crack system is the Syllable