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Rainbow Slide - Over the Rainbow
5.6 YDS 4c French 14 Ewbanks V UIAA 12 ZA S 4b British PG13
Avg: 2 from 1
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Routes in Gothics
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Sagrada Familia T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Original Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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South Face Gothics Direct T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Takillya Sunrise T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Gothics Arch T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
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Rainbow Slide - Over the Rainbow T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 4 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | R. Hall, S. Matz, & Ed Palen July 2004 |
| Page Views: | 1,519 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Robert Hall on Jun 15, 2016 · Updates |
| Admins: | Morgan Patterson, Kevin MudRat MacKenzie, Jim Lawyer |
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Description
Without a doubt the hardest part of this climb was the approach that we took.
Adirondack Rock advises to hike up to the Pyramid-Gothics col and drop down to the East. Good advice ! The directions are a bit complex so will not be repeated here.
We chose to leave the Weld trail (from Lower Ausable Lake) early and bushwhack up the "drainage". The going started OK along a streambed, then we left the streambed and took a line towards the slab. A patch of serious blowdown slowed progress. Our ascent was in 2004 and "Pre-Irene" so one can only imagine that the blowdown got worse, not better.
Eventually we emerged from the blowdown of cris-crossed trees into a beautiful "dell" of moss and ferns, then we continued up a slab (lead photo) through more open forest to the lower, very low-angle slab.
P1 - Recollection is that we roped up (more because there was a nice, flat place to do so)for easy pitch which led up near (recollection is 20-25 ft below, but it might be more) the base of the left-arching overlap (of "Pot of Gold 5.7") 2007, Haas, Rosecrans & Livingston). 200 ft 5.4
P2 - Up and right on flake(s) and friction, and establish a belay. Recollection is about 75-100 ft??? 5.5 - 5.6 and I remember slinging something (flake, horn??) as part of the belay.
P3 - Start off right-ish, then straight up to a small (10 ft high, 1-2 ft "deep") inside corner and belay at the piton left in place. 100-120 ft, more?? 5.5 - 5.6
P4 - Up and left on easier terrain but with limited protection points to the trees. about 100-120?? ft 5.2-5.4
Certainly, pitches can be combined (as seems to be described in "Adk Rock") but on unknown friction like this, when I find a solid belay I usually stop...one never knows when the next one will show up!
From the tree(s) reached, using a single 200ft/60m rope, we were able to lower down, place a directional cam in a small overlap/flake that was about 50+/- ft down and to climber's right, then from there lower down nearly directly to the corner of what would become "Pot of Gold". I remember we reached below the overlap, but forget how far down the corner. Maybe 1/2 way down?? Bob and Ed both TR'd this high-quality pitch.
Exit - I remember that Ed continually said "I've got the exit route". From the tree we moved up and right to a low-angle but scary-due-to-damp-moss slab which we eventually climbed out of into the bushwhack to the trail.
The photo in "Adk Rock", taken from the side, appears to show very little bushwhacking, I think that in reality we spent more time in the high-angle trees and bushes than on the slide. Certainly, looking at the slide "face on" from the top of Indian Head and/or the Lower Boathouse, the top of the "exit slide" is a ways from the ridge crest (and hence the trail) than it appears from the side view.
Adirondack Rock advises to hike up to the Pyramid-Gothics col and drop down to the East. Good advice ! The directions are a bit complex so will not be repeated here.
We chose to leave the Weld trail (from Lower Ausable Lake) early and bushwhack up the "drainage". The going started OK along a streambed, then we left the streambed and took a line towards the slab. A patch of serious blowdown slowed progress. Our ascent was in 2004 and "Pre-Irene" so one can only imagine that the blowdown got worse, not better.
Eventually we emerged from the blowdown of cris-crossed trees into a beautiful "dell" of moss and ferns, then we continued up a slab (lead photo) through more open forest to the lower, very low-angle slab.
P1 - Recollection is that we roped up (more because there was a nice, flat place to do so)for easy pitch which led up near (recollection is 20-25 ft below, but it might be more) the base of the left-arching overlap (of "Pot of Gold 5.7") 2007, Haas, Rosecrans & Livingston). 200 ft 5.4
P2 - Up and right on flake(s) and friction, and establish a belay. Recollection is about 75-100 ft??? 5.5 - 5.6 and I remember slinging something (flake, horn??) as part of the belay.
P3 - Start off right-ish, then straight up to a small (10 ft high, 1-2 ft "deep") inside corner and belay at the piton left in place. 100-120 ft, more?? 5.5 - 5.6
P4 - Up and left on easier terrain but with limited protection points to the trees. about 100-120?? ft 5.2-5.4
Certainly, pitches can be combined (as seems to be described in "Adk Rock") but on unknown friction like this, when I find a solid belay I usually stop...one never knows when the next one will show up!
From the tree(s) reached, using a single 200ft/60m rope, we were able to lower down, place a directional cam in a small overlap/flake that was about 50+/- ft down and to climber's right, then from there lower down nearly directly to the corner of what would become "Pot of Gold". I remember we reached below the overlap, but forget how far down the corner. Maybe 1/2 way down?? Bob and Ed both TR'd this high-quality pitch.
Exit - I remember that Ed continually said "I've got the exit route". From the tree we moved up and right to a low-angle but scary-due-to-damp-moss slab which we eventually climbed out of into the bushwhack to the trail.
The photo in "Adk Rock", taken from the side, appears to show very little bushwhacking, I think that in reality we spent more time in the high-angle trees and bushes than on the slide. Certainly, looking at the slide "face on" from the top of Indian Head and/or the Lower Boathouse, the top of the "exit slide" is a ways from the ridge crest (and hence the trail) than it appears from the side view.
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