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Charlotte's Ride to the Sky
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 2.4 from 11 votes
Type: | Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 6 pitches |
FA: | Jean-Marc Savoie, Ryan Larkin, Paul Greenwood - 2015 |
Page Views: | 2,227 total · 21/month |
Shared By: | Mark Roberts on May 8, 2016 · Updates |
Admins: | Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
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Access Issue: Camping
Details
The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Description
New multipitch that starts on Cardhu Crack and keeps going. A mix of different styles and difficulties.
This could use some traffic. It was fairly dirty when we climbed it, though I imagine we were one of the first parties of the season. Plenty of pine needles and detritus caught in the cracks, so take a nut tool as you climb.
P1: Cardhu Crack. You'll want to climb past the Cardhu anchors up to a ledge with rap rings. (5.8, 45m)
P2: Climb up and right, then traverse left along an easy hand crack on a ramp. Tree anchor. (5.6, 15m)
P3: Climb right up a diagonal finger crack. The FAist describes this as a hand crack, but you'd need pretty small hands for that to be accurate. Balancy and tough - will get easier when it cleans up with more traffic, but will get harder again when the stumps eventually fall out. When clean, this will be a very nice line. Bolt anchor, belay in a hole. (5.10-, 25m)
P4: The crux pitch is a beautiful and sustained line with tough, engaging climbing. Traverse right, clip a bolt, chimney up through easier ground on larger gear. Clip two more bolts as you begin tackling the main feature: a thin seam in a little mini-dihedral (like two inches of left-facing corner) . Looks improbable for the grade as the seam is almost slammed shut, but eventually the crack does open up slightly to take some small gear (yellow C3s to purple C3s). After your first piece of gear, tips locks and eventually a finger lock or two begin to reveal themselves as the angle eases up. The crack peters out at the top, so slab climb past 2 more bolts at a mid-10 grade.
This pitch is very balancy and technical in nature. I'd read that you could easily aid through the thin section, but I don't know - you probably could aid through it with enough RPs, but this isn't a french-free-through-a-few-moves sort of pitch. Bolt anchor. (5.11-, 40m)
P5: Climb a short, steep and juggy right-leaning crack to a tree above the belay. Slab and a cool dyke traverse up to the bolt-anchors. 2 bolts, and few cracks for gear every now and then. (5.9 - 35m)
P6: Walk into the forest, then climb a fun, long and easy pitch. Starts off sporty, with many jugs and foot holds and lots of different gear options. As you climb higher, the pitch becomes lower angle and slabbier in nature. Near a bolt there is a 5.8 slab move. I think there was 2 bolts on this pitch, but there may have been 3. Bolt anchor. (5.8 - 40m).
To descend, traverse left, then right up a ramp. From there a faint trail leads south to the Skywalker walk-off.
This could use some traffic. It was fairly dirty when we climbed it, though I imagine we were one of the first parties of the season. Plenty of pine needles and detritus caught in the cracks, so take a nut tool as you climb.
P1: Cardhu Crack. You'll want to climb past the Cardhu anchors up to a ledge with rap rings. (5.8, 45m)
P2: Climb up and right, then traverse left along an easy hand crack on a ramp. Tree anchor. (5.6, 15m)
P3: Climb right up a diagonal finger crack. The FAist describes this as a hand crack, but you'd need pretty small hands for that to be accurate. Balancy and tough - will get easier when it cleans up with more traffic, but will get harder again when the stumps eventually fall out. When clean, this will be a very nice line. Bolt anchor, belay in a hole. (5.10-, 25m)
P4: The crux pitch is a beautiful and sustained line with tough, engaging climbing. Traverse right, clip a bolt, chimney up through easier ground on larger gear. Clip two more bolts as you begin tackling the main feature: a thin seam in a little mini-dihedral (like two inches of left-facing corner) . Looks improbable for the grade as the seam is almost slammed shut, but eventually the crack does open up slightly to take some small gear (yellow C3s to purple C3s). After your first piece of gear, tips locks and eventually a finger lock or two begin to reveal themselves as the angle eases up. The crack peters out at the top, so slab climb past 2 more bolts at a mid-10 grade.
This pitch is very balancy and technical in nature. I'd read that you could easily aid through the thin section, but I don't know - you probably could aid through it with enough RPs, but this isn't a french-free-through-a-few-moves sort of pitch. Bolt anchor. (5.11-, 40m)
P5: Climb a short, steep and juggy right-leaning crack to a tree above the belay. Slab and a cool dyke traverse up to the bolt-anchors. 2 bolts, and few cracks for gear every now and then. (5.9 - 35m)
P6: Walk into the forest, then climb a fun, long and easy pitch. Starts off sporty, with many jugs and foot holds and lots of different gear options. As you climb higher, the pitch becomes lower angle and slabbier in nature. Near a bolt there is a 5.8 slab move. I think there was 2 bolts on this pitch, but there may have been 3. Bolt anchor. (5.8 - 40m).
To descend, traverse left, then right up a ramp. From there a faint trail leads south to the Skywalker walk-off.
Photos
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