Type: Trad, 5 pitches
FA: Michal Rynkiewicz, Chandler Davis, Ryan Hoover
Page Views: 12,553 total · 121/month
Shared By: Ryan Hoover on May 2, 2016
Admins: Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan

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Description Suggest change

An excellent route that follows the obvious splitter corner above lamplighter to the top of the wall. Although this may be one of the easiest full length upper wall routes, this climb requires heavy use of small, but never dangerous gear through sustained airy climbing. Not to be missed!

P1 - 5.10c Climb Lamplighter to the top of the chimney. Traverse left and follow up the slab to the anchor.

P2 - 5.9 The Frog Corner: Steep juggy crack climbing on perfect gear makes for one of the best 5.9 pitches at Index. From here, your gear need only fit typical hand-sized and smaller cracks. So leave all gear from #3 and up at the top anchor.

P3 - 5.10 Pull a steep roof past a few bolts. Fun steep climbing on small gear follows. Finish the pitch on a leftward seam and follow up to the chains.

P4 - 5.10- Climb straight up above the belay placing small cams. Clip a bolt and follow crimps up and right until reaching twin cracks. Traverse left at the bolt and continue up steep terrain to the anchor. Leave all gear at the top anchor.

P5 - 5.10- Clip all bolts up fun crimpy climbing to the top.

Location Suggest change

Start up Lamplighter. Break left at the top of the chimney.

Protection Suggest change

12 draws, rack of nuts including brassies, doubles to 2", single #3/#4. One could bring extra's to .4 if you want some extra comfort. Rappel with a 70 meter rope.

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