Type: | Trad, 120 ft (36 m) |
FA: | Chip Ruckgaber, Dan Hare, 1984 |
Page Views: | 1,301 total · 12/month |
Shared By: | Stefan Griebel on Apr 25, 2016 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
This exciting pitch is an alternative to the 5.9+ P4 of X-M and is actually more in character with the "sporty" P3 of X-M. It's even protected by similar sketchball, rusty, Eldo pins, but at least there are 3 instead of only 2....
From the belay atop X-M's P3, look at the first dihedral to the right of Outer Space's P1. This is Liquor Mart. X-M continues along the broken strata up and right, while Liquor Mart goes straight up the dihedral. This is characterized by compression moves, difficult clips, and a crux move left to get established in the dihedral itself. A few moves above the 3rd and final lousy pin (not including the stray one way up and right) more gear can be had; the climbing also gets significantly easier. Finish and belay on the large, sloping Outer Space ramp.
I recommend linking P3 of X-M with this rather than building a belay at the sloping shelf at the guidebook finish of X-M-P3. That way, there is even more rope out to soften your fall onto the manky pins!
From the belay atop X-M's P3, look at the first dihedral to the right of Outer Space's P1. This is Liquor Mart. X-M continues along the broken strata up and right, while Liquor Mart goes straight up the dihedral. This is characterized by compression moves, difficult clips, and a crux move left to get established in the dihedral itself. A few moves above the 3rd and final lousy pin (not including the stray one way up and right) more gear can be had; the climbing also gets significantly easier. Finish and belay on the large, sloping Outer Space ramp.
I recommend linking P3 of X-M with this rather than building a belay at the sloping shelf at the guidebook finish of X-M-P3. That way, there is even more rope out to soften your fall onto the manky pins!
Photos
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