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Fingertip Traverse Of Josh
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British PG13
Avg: 2.3 from 14
votes
Routes in Pep Boys Crag
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Arturo's Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Busta Move T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Busted T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Con Artist, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Dos Peros Negros T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Fingertip Traverse Of Josh T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Flim Flam Man T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Four Guys T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Gas Jockey T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Glib Glam Gal TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Gothic Flakes T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Grease Monkey T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Gutones T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Joshua Tree Gothic T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R |
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Kori Bustard T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Middle Ages T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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One Guy T 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a PG13 |
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Ostrogoths T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c |
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Pep in Your Step T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Poison Hamburger T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Six Guys T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Strain Gauge T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Tainted French Fries T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Three Best Friends Your Car Ever Had, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Three Guys T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Two Guys on the Wrong Climb T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Verve in Your Swerve TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Visigoths T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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We Must Improve Our Bust T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Yabo Phone Home T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Yaborrhea T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Zip in Your Trip TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
| Type: | Trad, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | Alan "the Voice" Roberts, John "the Scrutinizer" Hayward late 1980s |
| Page Views: | 1,503 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Sean on Apr 18, 2016 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest |
Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
This and adjacent routes are clearly seen from the paved pullout by the Milepost on the right (SW) side of Quail Springs Road, roughly 1/2 mile west of Hidden Valley. Approach from the paved pullout by walking along the delineated path a dozen or so yards, then going up and left past a few boulders to the base of the route.
Start atop a block at the base of a short, right-slanting dihedral. Just up and left of the start is an obvious series of flakes - the line of this route. Step up toward the short, right-slanting corner and place gear, then step left (spooky) to reach the obvious flakes. Go up and slightly right on obvious flake features until arriving at the start of the right-slanting fingertip traverse. Decent thin gear (C3s, TCUs, small wires) is available up until then for skilled leaders. Finger traverse right across the top of an arch, placing some thin gear, to reach a stance below an obvious vertical crack. Follow the easy, vertical crack to the top. Just to the left of the top of the vertical crack is a rappel anchor. Both this route and Joshua Tree Gothic can be TRd from this anchor. Rappel with at least a 50m rope.
(Note: The route as drawn in the 1992 guidebook starts to the climber's left [now the start of Two Guys on the Wrong Climb], the route as drawn in Joshua Tree West starts further to the climber's right, which is also incorrect. That is the climb Joshua Tree Gothic)
Descent
Rappel from the anchor atop the route or scramble down a short gully on the back of the formation and then either boulder hop down toward the road or toward the Cathouse to return to the base of the route.
Protection
Carry small wires, C3s, TCUs and gear to 3" along with some shoulder length slings.
Rappel from the anchor atop the route with at least a 50m rope. Alternately, scramble down a short gully on the back of the formation and then either boulder hop down toward the road or toward the Cathouse to return to the base of the route.
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