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Chalk Bomb Antics
5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 2.5 from 4
votes
Routes in D - Hidden Ledge
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Chalk Bomb Antics S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Doug the Subway Fugitive S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Ones Who Walk Away, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Rancid Meat S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Sport, 65 ft (20 m) |
| FA: | Kristen Fiore, Tim Sichel (April 17, 2016) DIRECT: KF and Thom Corrado (May 12, 2017) |
| Page Views: | 1,154 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Kristen Fiore on Apr 18, 2016 |
| Admins: | Jason Hayden, Kristen Fiore, Luc-514 |
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Description
A very awesome pitch with two variations.
Start at the toe of the arête and make your way up to the roof. Traverse right and up under the roof on thinning holds until you can power up to the money jugs. A tricky mantel leads to 15 feet of easy terrain and a stance. Chalk up and catch your breath for an increasingly cruxy length of climbing that doesn't stop until a nice jug above the chains.
Direct: After the second bolt, find an undercling and clip a high bolt (1/2 inch mechanical). Then make powerful moves straight up through the overhang and join the original route at the jugs.
Named for the fistfulls of chalk heaved at a giant wasp nest to get them to fly away during the first ascent. My apologies for anyone at the cliff that day who may have heard the nonsense but hope you had a good laugh at my expense.
Start at the toe of the arête and make your way up to the roof. Traverse right and up under the roof on thinning holds until you can power up to the money jugs. A tricky mantel leads to 15 feet of easy terrain and a stance. Chalk up and catch your breath for an increasingly cruxy length of climbing that doesn't stop until a nice jug above the chains.
Direct: After the second bolt, find an undercling and clip a high bolt (1/2 inch mechanical). Then make powerful moves straight up through the overhang and join the original route at the jugs.
Named for the fistfulls of chalk heaved at a giant wasp nest to get them to fly away during the first ascent. My apologies for anyone at the cliff that day who may have heard the nonsense but hope you had a good laugh at my expense.
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