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Feel the Bern

5.11c, Sport, 90 ft (27 m),  Avg: 3.9 from 33 votes
FA: Tyler Tanhoff and Dave McRae 3/2016
Oregon > Central Oregon > Smith Rock > (z) Lower Gorge > E Side > (2) Windfall Wall
Warning Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures DetailsDrop down

Description

The Bern starts to build on the frothy textured .11- lower face, then after a rest, it culminates on overhanging big moves between good holds up high.

Location

Bolted face between Genocide and Left Gnarly Crack. Shares an anchor with Genocide.

Protection

11 bolts. Optional .75 camalot to protect the final moves.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Paul Knill on Feel the Bern.  PC: Julien Havac
[Hide Photo] Paul Knill on Feel the Bern. PC: Julien Havac
The forearm Berning crux<br>
[Hide Photo] The forearm Berning crux
Dave on Feel the Bern
[Hide Photo] Dave on Feel the Bern
After crux
[Hide Photo] After crux
Steepest route in the LG?
[Hide Photo] Steepest route in the LG?
Tyler about to Feel the Bern on the first ascent
[Hide Photo] Tyler about to Feel the Bern on the first ascent

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Nick.A
Bend
 
[Hide Comment] This is a great climb! Nice textured rock with cool features on the bottom half, and bold moves up high. Destined to be a classic Jul 9, 2016
Chuck Becker
Portland, OR
  5.11c
[Hide Comment] Stellar route! May 29, 2018
Pauly Knill
Bend, OR
 
[Hide Comment] I love this route! bolted really well, 5.11- moves on the lower half on awesome textured rock, a great rest in the middle and then in your face, bouldery moves through big holds for about 4 bolts, then the actual technical crux hits you, and then an easier but awkward finish with an optional cam placement. A definite Gorge favorite for me! Being belayed by Tyler for my send was a real treat as well. Aug 4, 2018
Dave McRae
Bend, OR
5.11c
[Hide Comment] The bolt at the bottom of the overhang is tough to clip for shorter folks. This makes it quite sketchy as it comes after a significant run out on easier terrain.
For anyone under 5'7", I suggest bringing a stiffie draw to make the clip, as well as a blue metolius and/or a medium sized stopper to place half way up the run out to the overhang. Jul 9, 2020
[Hide Comment] If you're concerned about clipping bolt #8, you can protect the moves with a #1 Camalot. Or you could easily clip it with a stiffy. But truth be told, if you climbed the lower face up to this point and/or expect to get up the final stretch, this section should be unremarkable - albeit consequential - even if you have to do an extra move or two to make the clip.

This route is wicked good and ranks up there with the very best I've done in the park. Thank you to the FA team. Feb 9, 2022
Dan Bookless
Bend, OR
  5.11c
[Hide Comment] OH
EM
EFF
GEE

4 stars!!! Sep 17, 2022
David Mehr
Bend, OR
  5.11c
[Hide Comment] This thing would get mobbed if it was anywhere but the east lower gorge. A lot of good climbs at this wall but worth coming for this one alone! Jun 1, 2023