Type: | Trad, TR, 40 ft (12 m) |
FA: | an iguanadon |
Page Views: | 947 total · 9/month |
Shared By: | Leo Paik on Apr 4, 2016 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Rim Rock Trail at N. Table Mt. Park is closed Feb. through July 31 to protect raptor nesting territory and ground-nesting bird habitat.
It's likely few climber go there, but it may affect the adventurous.
It's likely few climber go there, but it may affect the adventurous.
Description
This is a slightly inviting chimney to those of us iguanadon types. Oddly, it climbs somewhat like a desert route. Now perhaps the most interesting part is that you could lead this with a #1 Camalot rack and smaller.
Ascend the wide crack/chimney to the left of Good Ju-Ju on easier-than-it-looks climbing. On my first lead of it, I brought up some Craig Luebben's thesis Bigbros thinking I'd need them. Fiddling with a so-so #3 and clipping it, I found a blind #1 Camalot placement at that level further in. You can offwidth chimney (as I did the first go) or face climb a bit on the outside. Left side in or right side in works a bit higher. Gain the ledge. Now, you can do Good Ju-Ju's finish to the right or finish with a minor between the ears crux to the left. There's a blue Alien, #0 TCU spot reachable from the ledge. A wee nip of courage will get you up to the top. For what it's worth, on first lead, I got on top, placed a #0.75 Camalot, and downscrambled to Good Ju-Ju's anchor, but the crack for the #0.75 isn't supported, so I unclipped it leaving the directional above the top of the left crux as the directional for seconds.
Ascend the wide crack/chimney to the left of Good Ju-Ju on easier-than-it-looks climbing. On my first lead of it, I brought up some Craig Luebben's thesis Bigbros thinking I'd need them. Fiddling with a so-so #3 and clipping it, I found a blind #1 Camalot placement at that level further in. You can offwidth chimney (as I did the first go) or face climb a bit on the outside. Left side in or right side in works a bit higher. Gain the ledge. Now, you can do Good Ju-Ju's finish to the right or finish with a minor between the ears crux to the left. There's a blue Alien, #0 TCU spot reachable from the ledge. A wee nip of courage will get you up to the top. For what it's worth, on first lead, I got on top, placed a #0.75 Camalot, and downscrambled to Good Ju-Ju's anchor, but the crack for the #0.75 isn't supported, so I unclipped it leaving the directional above the top of the left crux as the directional for seconds.
Protection
What worked: #3 Bigbro (optional), #1 Camalot, red Alien, #0.5, blue Alien, #0 TCU, green Alien, and a #0.75 (super iffy). 4 longer (24") slings are useful. Lower/rap off Good Ju-Ju's anchor.
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