Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Reign of Fire

5.13b PG13, Trad, 70 ft (21 m),  Avg: 4 from 4 votes
FA: Adam Taylor
N Carolina > 1. Southern Mou… > Looking Glass Rock > N Side
Warning Access Issue: Post Hurricane Helene Accessibility of Crags DetailsDrop down

Description

Pumpy and kinda awkward gear protected climbing right off the belay moving right through overlaps. The first of 3 bolts is very hard to hang on RP as it was bolted for aids. A few deep tugs bring you to a good horizontal rest before a fierce and crimpy crux though the flaring crack. More pumpy gear protected climbing with good whip potential brings you to the anchors of the open book.

Location

This route climbs directly off the anchors from the top of the Glass Menagerie 1st pitch. It's listed in the guide as an aids variation to the Open Book and also skips the chossy P2 traverse. Climbs up and right through overlaps and flared bolt protected crack and meets up with the anchors of the Open Book pitch. Recently discovered you can rap to the ground with a single 80M from the anchors.

Protection

cams from red c3 - #2 camalot
3 bolts
bolted anchors with rap rings

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

1st bolt of Reign before replacement...The other two had been larger non-stainless wedge bolts, but now all is stainless!
[Hide Photo] 1st bolt of Reign before replacement...The other two had been larger non-stainless wedge bolts, but now all is stainless!
Zack in the bis
[Hide Photo] Zack in the bis
Zack in the bis
[Hide Photo] Zack in the bis
The crux… Zach Mintz photo
[Hide Photo] The crux… Zach Mintz photo

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Casserly Casserly
Lakewood, CO
  5.13a/b
[Hide Comment] This pitch has been linked into a full redpoint of the Glass Menagerie bumping the grade up a bit. Go do it! Apr 1, 2016
[Hide Comment] Replaced the 3 bolts with new stainless this year. They were all moved a little to make the rope line straiter and clipping stances less strenous. Nov 2, 2019
Corey Flynn
Beattyvillain
[Hide Comment] I dont see how linking this into the roof would change the grade at all seeing as how you have a no hands stance at the top of Reign of Fire and then again after the short 11a flare. Unless you are upgrading due to having more rope out which seems a bit silly in the age of 8.9 and 9.0 mm cords Mar 11, 2020
Jacob Ward
Asheville
  5.13b
[Hide Comment] You don't need 2 ropes or an 80m to get down. Just keep kicking off the wall while rappelling and you'll easily be able to swing in to the 1st pitch anchors. May 10, 2022
Jacob Ward
Asheville
  5.13b
[Hide Comment] Super super good route, the crux has some of the coolest movement I've done in the area. I match my left foot with my right hand at one point. Bolts protect the hardest moves, all the climbing on gear is 5.11+ tops. The only thing that mars this route is some poor rock at the start of the pitch, but after that it's great moves on perfect rock. May 9, 2023