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> Queretaro
> Peña de Bernal
> Cara Oeste (W F…
> Corrugated Roof Area
Feel the Bernal
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 2.3 from 3
votes
Routes in Corrugated Roof Area
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Bernal Sanders S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Colonel of Bernal S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Feel the Bernal S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Kernal of Bernal S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Unknown PdB 1 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Unknown PdB 2 S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Unknown PdB 3 S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Unknown PdB 4 T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Unknown PdB 5 S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Up or Down Chimney T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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| Type: | Sport, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | Todd & Donette Swain 12/2015 |
| Page Views: | 977 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Gunkswest on Mar 27, 2016 |
| Admins: | Ricardo Orozco, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
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Access Issue: ACCESS ISSUES
Details
Peña de Bernal's South face/town side, is closed to climbing until further notice by the state of Queretaro.
The actual suspension of climbing on Peña de Bernal:
- All routes on the South face are closed.
- The via feratta is closed for ascent or descent, including the rappel.
- The summit is closed by any route, including those from Chichid'ho side.
- You may climb the North side and routes on Campamento Chichid’ho side (although you may not summit).
- This will make climbing Filo Noroccidental impossible since it would be very difficult and dangerous to rappel the route.
The actual suspension of climbing on Peña de Bernal:
- All routes on the South face are closed.
- The via feratta is closed for ascent or descent, including the rappel.
- The summit is closed by any route, including those from Chichid'ho side.
- You may climb the North side and routes on Campamento Chichid’ho side (although you may not summit).
- This will make climbing Filo Noroccidental impossible since it would be very difficult and dangerous to rappel the route.
Description
Start to the right of the last route below the left side of a large ceiling about 40 feet up. The first handful of moves are climbing up along a vertical seam. Follow bolts up to the left portion of a ceiling where there is a left facing corner under the ceiling. Pull the ceiling on big holds and continue up to an anchor under the next ceiling.
Location
There are about ten fun, moderate routes that are down around the corner to the left of Filo Suroeste. To approach these climbs, hike up the main trail as if you are going toward the Bernalina face. About 100 yards before Bernalina, take a side path that goes up the hillside. This side path leaves the main trail near a wire basket filled with rocks (see descriptive pictures on main West Face page).
Go uphill about 50 vertical feet on the side path to a boulder that is painted like a monster/dinosaur. This boulder is on top of the shoulder/ridge that comes off the Pena.
Follow a path down the back side of the shoulder/ridge, staying at the base of the rock. In about 100 yards, you'll come to a face with a series of left-slanting cracks that look a bit like a corrugated metal roof. There is a long, orange ceiling above this face. These are the rightmost, upper routes on this wall.
At the left end of this face, there's a drop off of about 20 vertical feet. You can down climb (a bit tricky with a pack), do a short rappel from the nearby tree, or backtrack about 60 feet and follow a path downhill that loops back around to the lower, leftmost portion of the face.
The routes in this entire sector are described from left to right, so this route is the second from the farthest left on the lower face.
While this approach sounds complicated, once you've done it a time or two, you'll find you can get to this face from the main hiking trail in about five minutes.
Start to the right of the last (leftmost) route below the left side of a large ceiling about 40 feet up. The first handful of moves are climbing up along a vertical seam.
Go uphill about 50 vertical feet on the side path to a boulder that is painted like a monster/dinosaur. This boulder is on top of the shoulder/ridge that comes off the Pena.
Follow a path down the back side of the shoulder/ridge, staying at the base of the rock. In about 100 yards, you'll come to a face with a series of left-slanting cracks that look a bit like a corrugated metal roof. There is a long, orange ceiling above this face. These are the rightmost, upper routes on this wall.
At the left end of this face, there's a drop off of about 20 vertical feet. You can down climb (a bit tricky with a pack), do a short rappel from the nearby tree, or backtrack about 60 feet and follow a path downhill that loops back around to the lower, leftmost portion of the face.
The routes in this entire sector are described from left to right, so this route is the second from the farthest left on the lower face.
While this approach sounds complicated, once you've done it a time or two, you'll find you can get to this face from the main hiking trail in about five minutes.
Start to the right of the last (leftmost) route below the left side of a large ceiling about 40 feet up. The first handful of moves are climbing up along a vertical seam.
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