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The Owl Direct
5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British PG13
Avg: 2.5 from 4
votes
Routes in The Dome
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Dome Girdle T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Evening Stroll T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Overlooked Groove T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Left Edge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Prelude to King Kong T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Black Plague T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Pinnacle T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Gorilla's Delight T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Super Squeeze T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Umph Slot, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Owl, The T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Owl Direct, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Direct T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Cozyhang T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Cozyhang Alt. Finish T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Cozy Overhang T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Cozyhang 10a Variation T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Cozyhang Out T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Pussy Cat T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Signs Of Life T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Groove T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R |
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Familiar Face T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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East of the Sun T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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East Slab T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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East Slab East T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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E of East Slab East T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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East Face, Far Right T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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East Face, Farthest Right T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
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Cozy Dyno T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c R |
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| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches |
| FA: | Michael Moritz and Theo Morrow |
| Page Views: | 1,877 total · 17/month |
| Shared By: | Michael moritz on Mar 5, 2016 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures 2025 - Bitty Buttress, Blob, &, Security Risk reopened. Eagle Rock remains closed.
Details
On 3/14/25: Bitty Buttress, Blob, & SR reopened. Eagle Rock is closed.
2/3/25. Bitty Buttress, Blob, Eagle Rock &, Security Risk closed for raptor nesting.
FS (3/27/24): Eagle Rock & Security Risk are now open!
2/1/24: W. McCurry: USFS annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning 2/1/24 - Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Security Risk.
From W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock is closed - info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual area closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures were Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Through 7/31/23, the closures protect golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers about giving eagles space to raise young.
Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong & healthy eaglet this year,” wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but climber cooperation with closures are crucial to the eagles.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, nest sites stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob, East Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security are open. Eagle stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers.
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle, Security, Blob, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
2/3/25. Bitty Buttress, Blob, Eagle Rock &, Security Risk closed for raptor nesting.
FS (3/27/24): Eagle Rock & Security Risk are now open!
2/1/24: W. McCurry: USFS annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning 2/1/24 - Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Security Risk.
From W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock is closed - info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual area closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures were Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Through 7/31/23, the closures protect golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers about giving eagles space to raise young.
Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong & healthy eaglet this year,” wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but climber cooperation with closures are crucial to the eagles.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, nest sites stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob, East Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security are open. Eagle stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers.
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle, Security, Blob, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
Description
This is a direct start to "The Owl" and is not the same as "Direct".
Pick your way to the base of the black streak which extends directly below The Owl handcrack. Move up and slightly left into a small, left-facing dihedral. Place a couple pieces of pro in the back of the dihedral as these are your last pieces until after the crux. Move out and right of the dihedral onto the black streak, and crank some side pulls with tricky foot beta to a good finger lock and a big move to a jug. Continue up The Owl handcrack, and belay at the ledge. Pick your exit to the top, and walk off.
Pick your way to the base of the black streak which extends directly below The Owl handcrack. Move up and slightly left into a small, left-facing dihedral. Place a couple pieces of pro in the back of the dihedral as these are your last pieces until after the crux. Move out and right of the dihedral onto the black streak, and crank some side pulls with tricky foot beta to a good finger lock and a big move to a jug. Continue up The Owl handcrack, and belay at the ledge. Pick your exit to the top, and walk off.
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