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Routes in Panther Gorge
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Agharta T WI4- |
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Apex Predator T WI4 |
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ByTooth and Claw T WI4 PG13 |
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Charybdis T WI4 |
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Chimaera T WI3- R |
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Fly By T WI3 PG13 |
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John 3:16 T WI4 |
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Just Nickel and Iron T WI4- |
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Needle in a Haystack T WI3 |
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One for Me'Llord T WI5- M5+ PG13 |
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Orson's Tower T WI3+ PG13 |
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Panther Gorge Falls T WI4- |
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Passion and Warfare T WI5 M5 |
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PG-13 T WI4 |
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Pi Day T WI3+ PG13 |
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Ride the Lightning T WI5- PG13 |
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Scylla T WI4 PG13 |
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Seasons in the Abyss T M5+ |
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Skip the Lightning T WI3+ PG13 |
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Sorry, Kevin T WI4 |
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Spiritus Draconis T WI4+ |
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Waking Cerberus T WI5 M4 |
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Wrestling the Darkness T WI4 |
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| Type: | Trad, Ice, 600 ft (182 m), 4 pitches |
| FA: | Christian Fracchia, Charlie Dickens - 1999 |
| Page Views: | 1,909 total · 18/month |
| Shared By: | Matt D on Mar 2, 2016 |
| Admins: | Morgan Patterson, Kevin MudRat MacKenzie, Jim Lawyer |
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Description
Agharta is the first ice route in Panther Gorge.
There are two lines on the Agharta wall: Agharta, which climbs the ice to the right of the rock buttress that splits the face, and Just Nickel and Island that climbs the ice to the left of the buttress and merges with the traditional Agharta line for the top two pitches.
P1 30m NEI 1/2 Climb easy slabs/slopes to the base of the steep ice. This section can be bypassed on the right if the ice is too thin or non-existent.
P2 55m NEI 3 Climb the ice to the right of the rock buttress to reach mellower terrain above where rock outcroppings may offer shelter and a belay on rock gear.
P3 55m NEI 3/4 Climb easy slopes for 20m, then break through a vertical step amongst cool looking caves.
P4 35m NEI 3- climb rambling steps to the trees above.
Descent: rappel off scrubs, V-threads and/or rock outcroppings. Alternatively, some parties bushwack upwards to the Marcy trail (having seen this terrain, I can't understand why anyone would do this... ).
There are two lines on the Agharta wall: Agharta, which climbs the ice to the right of the rock buttress that splits the face, and Just Nickel and Island that climbs the ice to the left of the buttress and merges with the traditional Agharta line for the top two pitches.
P1 30m NEI 1/2 Climb easy slabs/slopes to the base of the steep ice. This section can be bypassed on the right if the ice is too thin or non-existent.
P2 55m NEI 3 Climb the ice to the right of the rock buttress to reach mellower terrain above where rock outcroppings may offer shelter and a belay on rock gear.
P3 55m NEI 3/4 Climb easy slopes for 20m, then break through a vertical step amongst cool looking caves.
P4 35m NEI 3- climb rambling steps to the trees above.
Descent: rappel off scrubs, V-threads and/or rock outcroppings. Alternatively, some parties bushwack upwards to the Marcy trail (having seen this terrain, I can't understand why anyone would do this... ).
Location
Hike to the Marcy/Haystack col from the Garden parking lot, passing John's Brook Lodge and Slant Rock (4 hours).
After bushwacking 20 minutes into Panther Gorge from the Haystack/Marcy col and reaching Panther den, follow the rock faces south past the Feline wall to the big obvious face of Agharta.
From the base of the climb, only the first 3 pitches are visible.
Base of Route: GPS: 44.113066 north, -73.908183 west = WGS84 UTM 18T 587369 4885010
After bushwacking 20 minutes into Panther Gorge from the Haystack/Marcy col and reaching Panther den, follow the rock faces south past the Feline wall to the big obvious face of Agharta.
From the base of the climb, only the first 3 pitches are visible.
Base of Route: GPS: 44.113066 north, -73.908183 west = WGS84 UTM 18T 587369 4885010
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