Type: TR, Ice, Snow, 3000 ft (909 m), Grade III
FA: Ed Whymper
Page Views: 1,499 total · 14/month
Shared By: georgiamike on Feb 16, 2016
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Description Suggest change

Routefinding is the real challenge on Antisana and early starts (12 AM) are a must because of the high probability of afternoon weather issues. The climb consists of weaving your way up the glacier to the bergschrund and finding a way across. Depending on conditions, the berg can be nearly impassible for all but the expert climber. About 800 feet below the summit the route splits in two directions. To the right is a steep snow climb and to the left a more interesting technical traverse with some exciting exposure. Altitude is also a challenge unless properly acclimitized. The views of Cotopaxi from the summit are incredible.

Location Suggest change

The trail from basecamp area leads to the toe of the glacier. There is a small weather station just before you get to the glacier. Since the glacier is very active routefinding is a challenge and the route varies quite a bit from season to season.

Protection Suggest change

3 ice screws, 2 snow pickets, roped glacier travel

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