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Heart of Stone
5.10b,
Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches, Grade II,
Avg: 2 from 1
vote
FA: Greg Collins, Hunter Dhalberg, Kevin Emery, Michell Smallman
Wyoming
> Sweetwater Rocks
> Lankin Dome
Access Issue: Sticky situation
Details
This place is desolate and dangerous WYO desert with very few amenities nearby, and zero assistance should you find your pretty-little-self in a bind.
The people are ornery and the land is mean. I don't recommend coming here at all. If the rednecks, miners, roughnecks vagabonds or land doesn't get ya, some dehydrated whacked-out windblown sunbeaten climber just might. . . . Sweetwater Rocks and adjacent areas require LOW-profiles and LOTS of respect and consideration. Keep all fences/gates as you found them. Do not build fires. Adhere to all posted signs. Do not drive off of existing paths (roads). Do not let your dog run around (chances are great that it'll be shot, bitten, trampled or fed upon). Do not take anything from this land. . . and do not leave anything. Good BLM quads are essential (make sure they're up to date). Granite Mtns (Sweetwater) area closures are adjustable and are done so via ranchers and BLM officiales. Great tracts of this area are privately owned; meaning that they are always closed. For example: Lankin Dome BLM as of last year was closed 04-30 thru 06-31 for public AND private lands; between 03-01 thru 04-31 it was closed on private land. So, sometimes private easements are opened, and sometimes they aren't. . . same with public lands; oh, and mining claims too! Pay particular attention to any signage and postings.
Access Issue: Close gates after passing through
Details
For respect of the local ranchers, always close the gates after passing through. Approach from the Nolan Pocket side is usually not restricted but there are closures for grazing leases on the Lankin Gap side from March-June. Be polite and non-confrontive to ranchers.
Description
Left of Rat Route and right of Sky Route is the natural line of Heart of Stone. Some perfect rock gets you up to the corner. Climb this to the wild summit overhang. Established on-sight, lead, with brushes even. However an electrical storm prevented a proper scrubbing below the top.
Location
Left of Rat Route and right of Star Jumper/Sky Route
Protection
1 set plus sling
[Hide Photo] Lankin Dome, South Face, Dubble Routes: Sky Route= green. Heart of Stone = black. Red Nations = red. Planet Earth = blue. Venus and Mars = purple. Crevasse Route = yellow