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Routes in The Titan
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Lone Wolf (VI- A6) T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b |
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Finger of Fate T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2+ |
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Finger of Fate Free T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b R |
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Gimp Warfare T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3 |
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Jade Gate T A4 |
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Naked Lunch T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A4 R |
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Sundevil Chimney 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3 |
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SunDevil Chimney Free T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c X |
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World's End 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A4 X |
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| Type: | Trad, 7 pitches, Grade VI |
| FA: | Jim Beyer -solo |
| Page Views: | 4,644 total · 41/month |
| Shared By: | Jim Beyer on Jan 26, 2016 · Updates |
| Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
The route is located 50' right of Gimp Warfare. It climbs a faint buttress that becomes a fin.
Pitch1 180' A6 climb good seam 70' then 100' runout(160' ground fall) to good belay in tiny right facing corner.
Pitch 2 140' A6 or A5 It seemed A5 on lead but A6 when I removed gear (possible 280' ground fall) 2 bolt belay.
Pitch 3 150' A5 up fin to 2 bolt belay. 2-50' runouts.
Pitch 4 100' A5 up fin, roof to good crack.
Pitch 5 90' A3 up expando flake tension right, up crack to "bivvy ledge" on Finger of Fate route.
Pitches 6 & 7 easy 5.8 A2 to top on Finger of Fate route.
Photos
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