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Ferrata Eterna Brigata Cadore
5.4 YDS 4a French 12 Ewbanks IV UIAA 10 ZA VD 3c British Easy Snow
Avg: 3.5 from 4
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Ferrata Eterna Brigata Cadore T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Easy Snow |
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| Type: | Trad, Snow, 3400 ft (1030 m), Grade III |
| FA: | Austrian Army WWI |
| Page Views: | 1,400 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Tim Wolfe on Jan 22, 2016 |
| Admins: | Tim Wolfe, Shawn Heath |
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Description
This is a long Ferrata ascending the eastern summit of the Marmolada ridge line (Punta Serauta). It is unique compared to many Ferrata due to a loose cable and a long distance between posts – therefor this is really an easy 5th class climb as you can’t really use the cable for ascent. When I did it, they were repairing the cable so it did not exist – making the route basically a free solo in the 5.4ish range. The standard time to complete this route is over 6 hours but it can be soloed in a few hours car to car. A nice morning out if you want a quick climb while everyone else is still sleeping or getting up for coffee.
It is a fairly long route compared to most Ferrata – ascending over 3000 vertical feet and having almost a mile of cable so there is a lot of nice climbing available. Depending on the year and season, there may be snow and ice up high. Regardless, if you intend to walk down rather than take the cable car – you will need crampons and ice ax as you must descend a glacier.
The upper portion of the route weaves its way through extensive World War 1 fortifications. In fact the route was established during the war to access these fortifications. It is my understanding that more soldiers died from avalanche and cold exposure than from bombs or bullets on this part of the front.
From the base-there is a metal sign indicating the star- follow the cable (or the path of least resistance for free soloing) up slabby rock with good in cut edges generally following the arête. After a couple thousand feet the angle eases further and you will wind back and forth as well as up and down near the ridge line generally on the North side of the face. Near the summit you will encounter extensive caves and military fortifications with an excellent trail leading from them up to the cable car.
It is a fairly long route compared to most Ferrata – ascending over 3000 vertical feet and having almost a mile of cable so there is a lot of nice climbing available. Depending on the year and season, there may be snow and ice up high. Regardless, if you intend to walk down rather than take the cable car – you will need crampons and ice ax as you must descend a glacier.
The upper portion of the route weaves its way through extensive World War 1 fortifications. In fact the route was established during the war to access these fortifications. It is my understanding that more soldiers died from avalanche and cold exposure than from bombs or bullets on this part of the front.
From the base-there is a metal sign indicating the star- follow the cable (or the path of least resistance for free soloing) up slabby rock with good in cut edges generally following the arête. After a couple thousand feet the angle eases further and you will wind back and forth as well as up and down near the ridge line generally on the North side of the face. Near the summit you will encounter extensive caves and military fortifications with an excellent trail leading from them up to the cable car.
Location
Parking: Drive up to Passo Fedaia and park at the East end of the lake near the Rifugio.
Approach: From the Rifugio parking area, follow signs downhill for a short distance on a gravel road then gain a trail heading up to the right of some rock walls and angling to the base of the obvious arête. There is a letter “F” on the rock and a plaque with the route name bolted to the wall. It takes 20 minutes to make the approach
Descent: There are two options. The easiest is to take the two stage cable car down the SE side of the mountain to Malga Ciapella and hitch hiking back to your car. It is not cheap: In 2007 it cost 20 Euros one way. However it’s a really long descent and you probably could never descend this direction safely on foot. Last car used to be at 16:25 so confirm that time before starting your route (drive down to the base to look at the times if you need to) and do NOT miss it. The other option is to descend west and then north down the glacier. You will need crampons, ice ax and probably a rope with a partner to do this descent safely. It reportedly takes a few hours.
Approach: From the Rifugio parking area, follow signs downhill for a short distance on a gravel road then gain a trail heading up to the right of some rock walls and angling to the base of the obvious arête. There is a letter “F” on the rock and a plaque with the route name bolted to the wall. It takes 20 minutes to make the approach
Descent: There are two options. The easiest is to take the two stage cable car down the SE side of the mountain to Malga Ciapella and hitch hiking back to your car. It is not cheap: In 2007 it cost 20 Euros one way. However it’s a really long descent and you probably could never descend this direction safely on foot. Last car used to be at 16:25 so confirm that time before starting your route (drive down to the base to look at the times if you need to) and do NOT miss it. The other option is to descend west and then north down the glacier. You will need crampons, ice ax and probably a rope with a partner to do this descent safely. It reportedly takes a few hours.
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