All Locations > Montana > Southwest Region > Hyalite Canyon > Winter Dance Area

The Nutcracker

Name: The Nutcracker
Rating: 3.8

WI5+ M8

Routes in Winter Dance Area

L › R R › L A › Z

	Curtains WI4
	Dielectric Breakdown WI5
	Flashover T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a WI3
	Land Before Time S M5-6
	Land of the Lost WI4
	Nutcracker, The WI5+ M8
	Over Easy WI3
	Rave, The 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a WI3 M10
	Slot Corner WI4
	Winter Dance WI5-6 M8
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Type:	Mixed, Ice, 600 ft (182 m), 5 pitches, Grade IV
FA:	Conrad Anker, Kris Erikson 2014
Page Views:	4,520 total · 42/month
Shared By:	Nate K on Jan 18, 2016 · Updates
Admins:	GRK, Zach Wahrer Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Potential road closures in winter. Details

Visit hyalite.org for updates.

Description

P1: M5 locate the bolt line to climbers right of winter dance. follow it to a 2 bolt anchor 70' (Anchor is a bit off to the left, this pitch is super choosy and probably the scariest thing on the route)

P2: M7 go right from P1 anchors. Climb more bolts up the steeping wall 80' to two bolt anchor

P3- M8 follow bolts through the roof. pumpy and fun 80' to two bolt anchor (crux is very cryptic good luck if you're going for the onsight)

P4- M5 follow more bolts to climbers left of the anchor. stem out onto the ice and enoy fun climbing to the top. 70' to two bolt anchor in the cave

P5- WI5 or sometimes harder. Climb the ice out of the cave and finish at a tree anchor on top 120'

The rock is typical hyalite mudflow but the position, difficulty, and final ice pitch of winter dance make this an amazing route.

Location

Go find Winter Dance. Follow the ridge up to a ledge that traverses in. if you hit a fixed line youve gone too far. Traverse in and look for ice blobs at the start of winter dance. There is a bolt line about 20-30 feet to climbers right. Route can be rapped with a 70 or you can top out and follow fixed lines down the ridge

Protection

The lower 3 pitches are all closely bolted. pitch 4 is a few bolts and then some ice screws. Pitch 5 is all ice. Bring 12-14 draws, and 8 or so screws.