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> Queretaro
> Peña de Bernal
> Cara Sur (S Face)
> Sunshine Wall
Filo Suroeste
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 3.6 from 10
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Routes in Sunshine Wall
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Filo Suroeste S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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El Rosal S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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La Vaca Loca S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Vuelo Sin Ti S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Red Rock Route S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Black Streak, The S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Dihedral Route S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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| Type: | Sport, 750 ft (227 m), 5 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 2,473 total · 22/month |
| Shared By: | Mauricio Herrera Cuadra on Jan 8, 2016 |
| Admins: | Ricardo Orozco, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
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Access Issue: ACCESS ISSUES
Details
Peña de Bernal's South face/town side, is closed to climbing until further notice by the state of Queretaro.
The actual suspension of climbing on Peña de Bernal:
- All routes on the South face are closed.
- The via feratta is closed for ascent or descent, including the rappel.
- The summit is closed by any route, including those from Chichid'ho side.
- You may climb the North side and routes on Campamento Chichid’ho side (although you may not summit).
- This will make climbing Filo Noroccidental impossible since it would be very difficult and dangerous to rappel the route.
The actual suspension of climbing on Peña de Bernal:
- All routes on the South face are closed.
- The via feratta is closed for ascent or descent, including the rappel.
- The summit is closed by any route, including those from Chichid'ho side.
- You may climb the North side and routes on Campamento Chichid’ho side (although you may not summit).
- This will make climbing Filo Noroccidental impossible since it would be very difficult and dangerous to rappel the route.
Description
One of the classic routes at the monolith. Usually less busy than Bernalina or Lado Oscuro.
P1) Follow the bolts straight up a clean face with tiny holds, continue up for a long pitch till you reach a second set of anchors in an alcove (5.9, 50m).
P2) Exit the alcove slightly right and up a short bulge, crank the crux and continue up moderate terrain to another set of anchors (5.10b, 40m).
P3) Head straight up a short wall then scramble up a huge vegetated ledge system till you find another short wall with a couple of bolts in it. Find the anchors at the top of it (hanging belay) or if you have a 60m rope, stretch it out a few more meters to reach a second set of anchors in almost flat terrain (5.7, 55-60m).
P4) Walk along the big platform and heading towards the final headwall to the summit, follow the trail to its base. Belay from there (Class 2, 25m).
P5) Climb the final headwall following the only line of bolts visible, the anchors will be very close to the summit (5.8, 50m).
From the last anchors an easy 10m scramble will get you to the summit (Class 3). Enjoy the view!
DESCENT: Follow the summit trail past the altars/cruxes and scramble down a little ways on the Southeast side of the cliff, you'll find a rap anchor at the top of Las Grapas via ferrata. Two 25m rappels get you to a ledge from where you can scramble down to the tourist trail and back to town.
P1) Follow the bolts straight up a clean face with tiny holds, continue up for a long pitch till you reach a second set of anchors in an alcove (5.9, 50m).
P2) Exit the alcove slightly right and up a short bulge, crank the crux and continue up moderate terrain to another set of anchors (5.10b, 40m).
P3) Head straight up a short wall then scramble up a huge vegetated ledge system till you find another short wall with a couple of bolts in it. Find the anchors at the top of it (hanging belay) or if you have a 60m rope, stretch it out a few more meters to reach a second set of anchors in almost flat terrain (5.7, 55-60m).
P4) Walk along the big platform and heading towards the final headwall to the summit, follow the trail to its base. Belay from there (Class 2, 25m).
P5) Climb the final headwall following the only line of bolts visible, the anchors will be very close to the summit (5.8, 50m).
From the last anchors an easy 10m scramble will get you to the summit (Class 3). Enjoy the view!
DESCENT: Follow the summit trail past the altars/cruxes and scramble down a little ways on the Southeast side of the cliff, you'll find a rap anchor at the top of Las Grapas via ferrata. Two 25m rappels get you to a ledge from where you can scramble down to the tourist trail and back to town.
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