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Guide's 11

5.11c, Sport, 65 ft (20 m),  Avg: 3.2 from 23 votes
FA: unknown
W Virginia > Eastern WV > Smoke Hole Canyon > Guide Wall > Sunshine Wall (Guide…

Description

Climb the face for 40 feet alternating between reachy pockets and bolts, to an excellent arm bar rest beneath a small roof. Pull the technical crux on a thin right-facing flake and very thin crimps to cruise up to the anchors.

Location

Route starts 10 feet left of large arête, just past the 5.8+ Arête route. Route shares start with Guide's 10, up to 2nd bolt. At this point, the route bifurcates into Guide's 10 (left) and Guide's 11 (right).

Protection

Nine bolts. Cold shuts at anchor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Alec approaching the crux on Guide's 11
[Hide Photo] Alec approaching the crux on Guide's 11

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Brennan VanDyke
Rogers, AR
[Hide Comment] Really good, sustained pocket pulling at about 5.8-5.9 until under the roof. Crux is really solid, crimpy for the grade but straightforward and really cool climbing. Great 11b. Aug 9, 2019
Corey Longboy
  5.11c/d
[Hide Comment] The crux felt more like 11+ to me, but it feels silly grading this route as such since all but 3 moves are 5.8 climbing. Overall, a fun challenging climb, with awesome exposure at the top. Enjoy the view! Nov 11, 2019
Mike Paugh
Morgantown, WV
[Hide Comment] no way is this 11a.. easily 11c. personal opinion yes, however I've never had an issue finishing an 11a anywhere in the country as I did with this route. Fun and sustained climbing getting to the roof with big holds to clip the hanger above the roof then very sequential, thin and reachy beta to pull through the roof on crimpy holds, once you stand up its pretty much over. Also note: I would highly recommend extending your draw on the roof bolt so the bottom biner hangs below the roof. We found using a shorter draw not only did the rope pinch between the biner and the rock, but if the bottom biner gate is facing left the gate opened when it cantilevered against the rock..not a good feeling! Be safe and have fun! Jun 22, 2020
Jonah S
Columbia
 
[Hide Comment] There's often a massive wasp nest in the big old jug hole, especially in spring/summer. You can avoid them by going slightly right and then straight up on crimps (and actually makes it a better climb imo). May 27, 2024