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Sweet as Hank
5.12b YDS 7b French 26 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E5 6b British
Avg: 3.7 from 38 votes
Type: | Sport, 70 ft (21 m) |
FA: | Alan Collins, Route prepared and bolted by Chris Hatzai |
Page Views: | 4,184 total · 37/month |
Shared By: | Chris Hatzai on Dec 4, 2015 |
Admins: | Kevin Piarulli, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball |
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Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures
Details
JULY 5 UPDATE FROM PARK MANAGEMENT:
ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK.
THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
Sweet as Hank
Sweet as Hank can be found on The Hank Collins Memorial Wall located by The Monument at Smith Rock State Park. This single pitch overhanging route is located to the far left side of the wall starting high up in a gully. A third class scramble up a slab gains access to the route.
Start out high in the gully carefully clipping the first bolt. Face climb through spacey 5.11 moves up to bolt 6. After making an awkward clip, from here this is where the overhang climbing begins. Start to meander your way through the roof section starting out on good edges, quickly working into the crux section. A key sloping hold and a series of good edged crimps set you up to either bump, or cross through to good edged side pulls. Clip bolt 10 and set up for the final sequence working off of a good edge and high under clinging hold above your head, throwing to a good hold above. Stick the slap and keep moving to clip bolt 11. Finish climbing up and right on good jugs leading to permanent steel anchors.
11 bolts, Fixed steel anchors
Start out high in the gully carefully clipping the first bolt. Face climb through spacey 5.11 moves up to bolt 6. After making an awkward clip, from here this is where the overhang climbing begins. Start to meander your way through the roof section starting out on good edges, quickly working into the crux section. A key sloping hold and a series of good edged crimps set you up to either bump, or cross through to good edged side pulls. Clip bolt 10 and set up for the final sequence working off of a good edge and high under clinging hold above your head, throwing to a good hold above. Stick the slap and keep moving to clip bolt 11. Finish climbing up and right on good jugs leading to permanent steel anchors.
11 bolts, Fixed steel anchors
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