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Crossly, Slits, and Gash

5.11, Trad, 150 ft (45 m), 2 pitches,  Avg: 3.5 from 2 votes
FA: Kennan Harvey, ..
Utah > W Desert > Ibex > Wind Buttress

Description

Great K. Harvey route, feels like a sandbag at first, but fortunately the guidebook switched the pitch difficulties. Get through the first pitch, set a bomber gear belay, and you've done the crux. P2 is wild .10. And beware of the Crosslys!

Location

Left side of wind tower, basically facing Clevland Steamer

Protection

double rack to #5, one #6

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

P1 climbs the corner,moves left, then up
[Hide Photo] P1 climbs the corner,moves left, then up

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Dave McRae
Bend, OR
 
[Hide Comment] I’d call the first pitch .11+. The difficulties came as a surprise as Garrett’s book calls it .10+.
Incredible movement and position paired with a little flaky rock and some sharp crosslies in the crack.
I was further surprised by the lack of anchor atop the first pitch. After making a gear belay, we traversed 30 feet right to an anchor around the corner. Jun 30, 2021