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> Lower Merced Ri…
> Am. Pat & Jack Pinnacle
Rocky Horror Show
5.12- YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 3.8 from 30
votes
Routes in Am. Pat and Jack Pinnacle
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Antifa Connection T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Babble On T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Black Heads T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A0 |
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Boneheads S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Book 'em Dano T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Cat's Squirrel T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Chicken Fever T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Desp-arete S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Desperado S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Desperate Straights T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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G-Man T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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G-Man Extension (not Book'em, Dano) T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Gay Bob's to extension T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Gilligan's Chicken T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Gold Chains T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Headstrong S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Jack Pinnacle, Left T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Kiddie Corner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Knob Job T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Knuckleheads S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Makayla's Climb T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Mantel Illness T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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More Mental than Mantel T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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My-Toe-Sis T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Nine Lives T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Nurdle T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Pat Pinnacle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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People's Court T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Polymastia T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Pussy Paws S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Rocky Horror Show T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Sherrie's Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Skinheads S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Suds T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Super Slacker Highway, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Trough of Justice T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Tube, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Underclingon S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Wart Hog T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Wedge, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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| Type: | Trad, 130 ft (39 m) |
| FA: | Ron Skelton, Mark Tuttle (5/89) |
| Page Views: | 3,227 total · 29/month |
| Shared By: | EJoe on Nov 22, 2015 · Updates |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Please visit climbingyosemite.com/ and nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
The Reid guide has you solo far right up a short 5.8 hand crack into a 4th class romp to a giant ledge, then walk left along this ledge to start the dihedral. You can alternatively climb the .10b crux section of Boneheads to gain said ledge. I personally think going direct via the Boneheads start is better, as it adds another technical element to the already diverse style of climbing required for Rocky Horror Show.
From the ledge, start with a hand crack to a small roof. The crack thins to sustained 5.10 fingers until about 2/3 of the way up. A short 5.11-ish section gets you to the first pairing of bolts which protects the route's physical crux. Top these 2 bolts and do a couple of .11 moves to a triplet of bolts. These 3 bolts protect the technical crux. Fire this section and don't botch the final mantle.
I recommend stretching your groin in preparation of the inevitable ninja stemming.
From the ledge, start with a hand crack to a small roof. The crack thins to sustained 5.10 fingers until about 2/3 of the way up. A short 5.11-ish section gets you to the first pairing of bolts which protects the route's physical crux. Top these 2 bolts and do a couple of .11 moves to a triplet of bolts. These 3 bolts protect the technical crux. Fire this section and don't botch the final mantle.
I recommend stretching your groin in preparation of the inevitable ninja stemming.
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