Zack Attack

Approach: The climb can be seen from the grotto falls lot. Start as for G1. Follow the trail to G1, either climb it or bypass to the right side. Continue up the trail to G2 and either climb it or bypass to the left. Either go up the gully immediatly left of G2 and then up the short 10ft mixed pitch to the G2 anchors or find golden mean and continue up and right from golden mean until you reach the gully above G2. Follow the gully up towards the obvious ice up high in the cliffs. You can stay on the rocks to the left for most of it to avoid avalanche hazard.

CLIMB: P1. Climb past the ice blobs and up into the large corner system. There are two variations from here.

The easier way at 5.8 is to climb the chimney/corner until about mid way before going right at a ledge (fixed nut an tat as of 2018). continue right into a large easy groove. Continue up the groove for 20 or so feet until a ledgy crack system starts going back left again, follow this up easier terrain trending left to an anchor on the left wall. DO NOT continue up the easy groove above this or you will dead end into some chossy rock and have to traverse 40 feet left to the anchor.

Option 2 is better climbing but bumps the grade up to around 5.9. Instead of going right at the fixed nut continue straight up the corner until it becomes vertical and a hand/ fist crack appears. Bring a 3 and maybe a 4 if you intend to do this.

The pitch one anchor is 3 pins and a nut in the left wall. 50M pitch if you go the easy way. 45 or so if you go the hard way.

P2. This pitch doesn't form as regularly as the others. climb thin ice for 30 feet. If the ice looks good then climb it. If not you can bypass it to the right via some easy but poorly protected rock/dirt. The rock above overhands slightly and makes the ice look much less steep than it really is. WI5/ 5.5R 30M. There is a slung boulder on the right side of the pitch at the top but it is better to save 2 screws and make a belay in the ice on P3.

P3. climb some steep ice then walk up some easy snow to the next pitch WI5- 15M. Belay off of trees

P4. More ice, sometimes very steep. WI5 15M. Belay off of trees.

DESCENT: To descend you need double ropes. Rap off of the trees at the top of P4. Rap to the trees on top of P3. From here with double 60M ropes you can rap to the anchor on P1. Then from P1 you can rap to the ground.

This route is visible from the grotto falls parking lot, look for ice in the chossy cliffs above G2. To get there follow the G2 approach, either climb G2 or bypass it to the left. Continue up the drainage until you reach the base of the cliffs. Look for a couple ice blobs at the base of a corner.

Rock pro up to a number 3 Camelot. 6 or so ice screws, bring some stubbies. Maybe a spectre. Bring webbing or cord. Two ropes are needed to rap.