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Friday Night Lights

5.10a, Sport, 50 ft (15 m),  Avg: 2.5 from 31 votes
FA: Jay Crew
California > High Desert > Apple Valley Area > Fairview Mountain > Middle Earth > Fairview Dome > W Side

Description

Right side route on the big chunk of slab. Climbs near the blunt arete. Crux is near the bottom passing bolt two.

Location

Right side route on the west face. Start down low and belay from the flat sandy area.

Protection

Bolts and 2 bolt anchor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Looking directly up from the bottom
[Hide Photo] Looking directly up from the bottom
Chalking for the mantle move just above...if you traverse a lil to the right it's on route..if you go to the left you're cheating yourself out of a great move and getting off route
[Hide Photo] Chalking for the mantle move just above...if you traverse a lil to the right it's on route..if you go to the left you're cheating yourself out of a great move and getting off route
A little harder than it looks, but not by much
[Hide Photo] A little harder than it looks, but not by much

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

BAd
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] My wife and I both did the crux a couple of times and feel that 10a is a little low. That's a pretty stout move getting past bolt two--just a move or two--but it felt technically harder that anything on Red Hulk, for example. Super safe, so no worries, but seemed hard for 10a. Mar 27, 2017
Howard
Costa Mesa, CA
[Hide Comment] Not sure why, but this didn't even feel like a .10. Is it because I'm used to pure friction slab from JT and other trad places? Before seeing the pics, I started wondering if I did the wrong route. And I'd just done Red Hulk. Nov 12, 2017
atomup
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] Never heard anyone say getting past the second bolt isn't 5.10 climbing. Its def not a sandbagged trad zone. Fun climb n must do if your rope is there. Easy to summit n sign if you're into that stuff. Jan 29, 2018
Steve Gabriel
Rancho Cucamonga
  5.9+
[Hide Comment] Fun route. I really enjoyed it. I dont think this is worthy of the 5.10 rating though. I found the The Owl 5.9 route around the corner to be more challenging. Jan 22, 2020
Clif Clap
 
[Hide Comment] 10a for the area. BTW comparing Fairview to Jtree is hilarious. Most importantly a very fun climb with a nice mantel low and some thin featured slab higher. Dec 13, 2020