PRINT: Rock Climb The Dainty Butterfly, Red River Gorge

The Dainty Butterfly

5.12c, Sport, 55 ft (17 m),

Avg: 3.5 from 30 votes
FA: Troy Davison in 2011
Kentucky > Red River Gorge > Bald Rock Recre… > Chocolate Factory

Access Issue: Private Property Details

In 2011, the Ventura Family (owner of Miguel’s Pizza) purchased the land above the cliff line, and the RRGCC’s 2017 purchase of the land beneath the cliff line and the surrounding areas ensures that the Motherlode, Chocolate Factory, and southeastern end of Sore Heel are climber-owned. The Ventura's have formed the Motherlode LLC to cover the liability of the land.

Description

A slightly overhanging crimp line that gets progressively harder until a very thin crux just below the anchor. Get ready to grab some footholds!

Start on the crack that heads up and right to a decent shake where the crack ends. From the rest, follow incut crimps for a few bolts then cut right to the arete for a good shake. A few more long moves on similar crimps set you up below the very thin crux. With the chains staring you in the face, and your crimp strength fading, imagine you are a dainty butterfly as you pull on nonexistent holds.

This is a great technical route on excellent rock. Get on it!

Location

Right of Bleak December.

Protection

6 bolts and two bolt anchor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

2-Fold (left), Bleak December (center), Dainty Butterfly (right)

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Ry bean

If you go far right after the last bolt and avoid the delicate boulder problem (from which the route get's its name), you in fact did not send the route. If you do this, you're welcome to call it Turdy Moth at about 5.12a Sep 22, 2023