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Routes in Blob Slab
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[Redacted] T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X |
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A Hike for Y2K S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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A Hike With Ludwig Dude T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Crack Tack TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Left Roof T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Of Human Bondage T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X |
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Old Route T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Out Of Limits T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Why Two Kracks? T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
| Type: | Trad, 90 ft (27 m) |
| FA: | first (known) lead: T. Bubb, J. Haas, 11/2015 |
| Page Views: | 1,376 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Nov 15, 2015 · Updates |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Blob Rock, East Blob closed 2/1/24
Details
Boulder, Colo. (2/1/24) – to protect nesting golden eagles, the U.S. Forest Service is implementing annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning Feb. 1, 2024. The closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk in Boulder Canyon.
From W. McCurry: as of 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock remains closed until 7/31/23. More info can be found: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
Previously: per K. Reid Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Arapaho & Roosevelt NFS: as of 4/15/22, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk are now open.
Eagle Rock remains closed to climbing through July 31, 2022.
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures 2024 - Bitty Buttress, Blob (Eagle Rock & Security Risk now open!)
Details
2/1/24: W. McCurry: to protect nesting golden eagles, U.S. FS annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning 2/1/24 - Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Security Risk.
USFS lifted closures 7/26/23.
From W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock stayed closed - info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual area closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures were Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Through 7/31/23, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers about giving the eagles space to raise young.
Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong & healthy eaglet this year,” wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but climber cooperation with closures are crucial to the eagles.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, nest sites stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob, East Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security are open. Eagle stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers.
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle, Security, Blob, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
Description
This is another route similar to the others up there and at a similar grade. This particular line starts as for the shared start of Crack Tack or Of Human Bondage. The latter of these is a book by W. Somerset Maugham and the inspiration for the now redacted name of this climb, 'Happiness in Slavery.' According to Maugham, reflecting on his life (as a free man) metaphorically as a pattern of threads in the design of fabric of a rug:
"...the simplest pattern, that in which a man was born, worked, married, had children, and died, was likewise the most perfect."
As for the title... Happiness in Slavery is perhaps best known in modern times as NIN song about commercialism in modern society (think: wage slave) and a term that figures prominently in 'Be Who you Want to Be,' by Sarah Fimm, each of these dealing in similar themes and philosophical currency from another angle. I pause to note that the music video of Happiness in Slavery has masochistic sexual content as a roughly sketched modern play of the book 'The Torture Garden' by Octave Mirbeau, a book which which was political commentary in and of itself, on the Dryfuss Affair of late 19th century France. Although the song lyrics are not related to this, the video is. I believe that Reznor chose to do this to push the envelope with the 'Gore Hoards' and censorship, and this was his method and commentary on that.
Though referred to philosophically by each of the above works, The literary origin of the route title is actually somewhat older than the songs mentioned. It was a turn of phrase specifically used in the Prelude to the book, The Story of O. As with this route title and it's origins, that book that has nothing to do with Chattel Slavery and has a long history of being burned for the ideas it contains.
How ironic, that we should end up in the same place here. Now we are into a long chain of banned or burned books, songs, videos, and route titles, but I digress.... It was never my intention, but I could not have scripted this more strangely appropriate if I had tried.
As for the route itself:
Climb up and onto good edges and features just right of the first bolt of Crack Tack. A couple of large stoppers and a hand-sized cam can go behind a right-facing crack/flake here just before the bolt on Crack Tack. You can skip the bolt as it is slightly further left (and you are going right), and it will create slightly more drag. The gear is good anyway.
Continue up and slightly right on positive crimps and reasonably good feet. You'll pass by the first of 2 bolts of 'Of Human Bondage' just to the left climbing perhaps as you might as for that route. You can clip this bolt as you'll just left of it by a meter as you reach its height, but be sure to put on a long sling if you do. If you have clipped it, it may cause some minor drag. At this point, at the height of the bolt, having clipped it (or not), you head up and left on relatively easier moves to a point that intercepts the bottom of 2 parallel seams that run up and right towards the top of the wall. Just before reaching them, I found a small/medium stopper and small cam placement. These are more directly above the previous gear placements and will make a zig-zag of the rope if you clipped the bolt on 'Bondage; Place this gear, regardless, as it will be the gear that keeps you off the deck in a fall. Head up and to the rightmost of the two parallel, leaning seams that go to the top of the wall. They offer no gear at first, but I cleaned some rock flakes and dirt out of a spot a few meters up these and got in a grey or purple (I chose the purple, but either would work) Mastercam. I presume a purple/black Alien would also work, but those are wider, and I am not sure. A ballnut might also fit and work as a back-up piece to the cam. You'll see the second bolt of 'Of Human Bondage' perhaps 3 meters to your right. Continue up the seam you are in to get up into the tiny, left-facing offset, and take that up to the ledge as for 'Of Human Bondage.' Place a few pieces of gear before traversing to the anchors to protect your second and the rope from a nasty swing.
Location
Protection
The route should be considered R/X like the majority of the routes on this wall. There is groundfall potential from non-crux moves if the belayer is not fully attentive, and much of the route depends on distant, and even very small gear, to prevent serious consequences.
A TR is possible from 'A Hike for Y2K's' anchors if you traverse left and set a directional.
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