East Face - Northern Shanahan Slab

This route is from the Roach guidebook and follows up the middle of the large gully in the middle of the east face leading up to the large and imposing vertical steps higher up the face.

Work straight up the middle of the gully following the delightfully good rock. There is almost zero gear for the first 300' with the exception of a tree that can be slung (or belayed from) at about the 100' level. Continue up the fun slab to the base of the large vertical step near the left edge of the gully.

From the base of the wall, climb left into a surprise gully, and work up a short steep wall to gain easier slabs above the first step. The easy step is quickly interrupted by another large wall, but it can be dodged by climbing hard right to a weakness in the wall.

Easier terrain leads up to a good ledge with some trees right below the final step to the summit. Pass the last bit on the left edge of the face, and step onto the nice summit. A higher summit is directly to the west and can be scrambled via a short, 4th class, eastern face.

The best way to find this is to climb the Southeast Ridge on the Eastern Shanahan Slab. Once on the small summit, walk off to the north and west, and the Northern Shanahan Slab is the first big rock you hit. Don't confuse this with the Central Slab, but the large gully you are climbing with the large overhangs above are pretty distinct features that would be hard to confuse.

There are virtually zero places to place gear due to the compact nature of the rock, but fortunately the climbing is quite easy.