Type: Trad, 240 ft (73 m), 2 pitches
FA: Unknown (AMC climbers in early days?)
Page Views: 1,124 total · 10/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on Nov 7, 2015
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

START: At the left end of a flat area on the trail about 30-40 ft left of the bottom of the North (right) Descent Gully, or about 25 ft right of Sea of Green (aka The Green Mile). There’s a “bottoming groove” that slants rightward as it ascends (Photo) and a clean face to its right with a bolt (start Rapier, a.k.a.“Unk Slab#1). The "wind blown pine tree" is your objective for the end of P1.

In my opinion, the opening moves are the crux. (And Sykes gives it a 5.7R in “Notches”, which is probably more accurate !) 

P1 - Climb the groove [Var 1] (crux 5.6 / 5.7R) to where it becomes a crack and then up to a 4” horizontal ledge about 30 ft up. From the horizontal, move left to the base of a hollow flake/shallow-corner [Var 2, Scepter, now highly recommended], do battle with the “small but mighty” pine tree, then up the flake/shallow-corner, then left and up to the big, “wind blown” pine tree. 120 ft 5.6 / 5.7 R

Variation #1 Alternately, climb the face 6-8 ft right of the groove (5.5 - 5.6 PG-13/R) for 10-12 ft and move left and up, back into the groove/crack).

P2 - Up the face above the wind-blown pine tree [Var 2] (watch the accumulation of pine needles!) into the arching flake. [Once considered virtually unprotectable, today try #3 or #4 Camalot(s).] WEBSTER: “Layback & face climb the entire length of the flake (“nice 5.6”), passing a small maple tree, then up into an alcove below an overlap. Move right to the end of a four foot wall, [NOTE: at this point a new 2-bolt anchor is a few feet below you.] climb over the wall (avoid he dirty corner to the right) and finish up slabs. 100-120 ft 5.5 - 5.6

Variation 2 - After climbing up a few feet beyond the pine tree it is possible to step left (old 1/4" bolt) and intercept Sea of Green ( once erroneously called the Green Mile)

Protection Suggest change

Normal Rack, #3 Camalot for upper crack

Photos

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