Type: Trad, 600 ft (182 m), 6 pitches
FA: Brian Pegg, Andy Durie, 1997. FFA: John Ford, Andy Durie, 1998
Page Views: 8,151 total · 70/month
Shared By: Geoff Georges on Nov 1, 2015 · Updates
Admins: Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra

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Description Suggest change

I guess the approach scares people off of this excellent route.

It does tend to be wet on the first approach bit and might seep on the first pitch.

This is a great hot summer day adventure.

Pitch 1) start up ledges to gain dihedral, great cracks and stem box. 5.9, 40-50m

Pitch 2) Move up and left from the anchor into a clean dihedral. Follow this up, trending right until on top of "Scratching Post Ledge", and at a bolted station. 5.9, 40m.

Pitch 3) Move the anchor down and right around the corner and across 3rd class terrain to another bolted anchor. From this anchor, climb a long crack pitch up to two anchor stations (one was added while the other was covered in ice). 5.10b, 55m

Pitch 4) Continue up the crack before making a move left across the face to a flake/crack. A bolt protects where the flakes are weak, continue up the good crack reached on the left to bolted anchor. 5.9 35-40m.

Pitch 5) Continue up the crack until you have to transition into face climbing past 2 bolts, getting to the 1st one was the crux for me, making the move at the 3rd bolt is the 10c A0 or 11a move, pretty short but committing feeling above big ledge( there are good holds above this), followed by more 5.9 crack to bolted anchor. 11a or 10cA0.

Pitch 6) slight right traverse and stay left of bulge, then right around right facing dihedral to tree with slings at top.5.9, 20 or 30m

http://squamishclimbing.com/squamish_climbing_bb/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=4601

Location Suggest change

Finding the trail can be hard, we drove past it, if you drive under the power lines you have gone too far. You will be directly across the river from the wall and at the top of a particularly rough 4X4 hill, there is a cairn and the river near by, rope bridge on the left. 45min hike up steep hill, right turn at cliff base, a fixed rope leads up wet corner to base of big left facing dihedral. All good bolted anchors, slings on tree at rim of wall.

Protection Suggest change

Well protected route with long pitches of mostly crack. Double rack to 3", lots of nuts and extra in small cams. If everyone who climbs this brought up a 4 link 3/8" chain, quick link, wrench, all of the anchors could be upgraded. As of summer 2015, there is good cord/slings on hangers.We took a tag line and left it at the top of pitch 6, did a single rope rap from top back to that anchor and then did double rope raps back to ground. From the top of the 10b anchor we went to the top of the Scratching post. The crack below this eats ropes, we had to climb back up to clear it.

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Photos

Fluffy Kitten Wall as seen from road, with approximate location of the route.
Fluffy Kitten Wall as seen from road, with appr…
 4
5th pitch
5th pitch
 1
First Pitch
First Pitch
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Pitch 4. This pitch is rather flaring - offset cams and aliens work great.
Pitch 4. This pitch is rather flaring - offset…
 1
Cruxy face moves just before the bolts on Pitch 6.
Cruxy face moves just before the bolts on Pitch 6.
 1
Roberta at the top of pitch 1.
Roberta at the top of pitch 1.
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Pitch 5, up the corner, traverse left to the flakes and up from there..
Pitch 5, up the corner, traverse left to the fl…
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Looking down on pitch 4..
Looking down on pitch 4..
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Pitch 3.
Pitch 3.
 0
Pitch 7.
Pitch 7.
 0
Pitch 5.
Pitch 5.
 0
Pitch 2.
Pitch 2.
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