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Straight Out Da Projects

5.12c R, Trad, 800 ft (242 m), 8 pitches, Grade III,  Avg: 3.9 from 7 votes
FA: Schaffer/Calkins
Colorado > Gunnison > Black Canyon of… > N Rim Routes > N Chasm View Wall
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Description

The crux is reach-dependent, a .12 or .13 leftward traverse.

This route has bullet hard, perfect, face climbing the entire way (except maybe the 1st and last pitch). There are a few runouts, but any falls would be clean. It would be best to have temps no higher than 60s!

Location

It is between "Apparition" and "Colorado Welcome Party". This starts at an obvious tree indicated in the topo.

Protection

Bring doubles to #1, 1 #2 and 1 #3, RPs, and nuts.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Topo.
[Hide Photo] Topo.
The Kerry Gunther crux traverse.
[Hide Photo] The Kerry Gunther crux traverse.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Jason Brown
Carbondale, CO
  5.12
[Hide Comment] I guess this was the initial topo and route. The final route path is way cool, hard and serious! My favorite on the whole panel! Sep 13, 2016
michalm
  5.12+ R
[Hide Comment] Incredible face climbing on perfect rock. Every pitch is worthwhile. I'll be back to redpoint P6. With the addition of new pitches, this is a sustained and enjoyable outing at the .11-.12 grade.
As a word of caution, the 3rd bolt on P6 (on the face above the .11R slab mantle) has been chopped, presumably by Shaffer. The climbing in this section is no harder than 10+/11- on very good rock, just don't blow the next clip. Oct 10, 2016
Nick Schlichtman
Golden, CO
  5.12c R
[Hide Comment] Wild, rowdy, and awesome!

Heads up for the independent finish, final 12- pitch... Nov 12, 2017
chris righter
  5.12 R
[Hide Comment] The last 12- pitch is pretty serious, with run out hard climbing on peg. I had a couple holds crumble on me, and I felt like I got away with something. I know this was put in ground up, but the bolt could be moved to a more logical spot to eliminate rope drag and mitigate a pretty serious fall. It wouldn't change the hole count and would make it a better route. Dec 19, 2023