The Green Arete
5.11 YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E4 5c British R
Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
FA: | FOS?? FFA J.Snyder 10/2015?? |
Page Views: | 903 total · 8/month |
Shared By: | Jeffrey Snyder on Oct 20, 2015 |
Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Description
A bold lead or proud top rope.
Possibly one of the proud Flag Old School top ropes long forgotten. Maybe it was lead back in the day.
P.O. that without the help of 'My Opinion' and micro cams a lead would have been a solo. When first rapped down, looked like it was going to be a modern bolted face climb and popular, if at all possible.
After swinging around, chopped holes were discovered just to the right of the arete. Since bolted squeeze jobs next to chopped routes isn't a thing... The Green Arete was left alone.
Back to the future. Bolts returned to 'My Opinion' and a A.D.T. micro gear nest was discovered that made leading the left side of the arete possible.
Start up slab below The Green Arete. Below steep face lean out and clip first bolt but stay perched on left side of the arete. Climb tenuous and steep arete moves before a jug rest horizontal. Build a death triangle of micro swag and punch into the steep arete finish above. It is possible to bail out and mantle over onto 'My Opinion' and clip the final bolt if your not feeling the buzzy finish out left.
Never took the fall... maybe someone could push a bag off the top for a lesson in physics. Might be clean fall if the gear nest holds?!
Possibly one of the proud Flag Old School top ropes long forgotten. Maybe it was lead back in the day.
P.O. that without the help of 'My Opinion' and micro cams a lead would have been a solo. When first rapped down, looked like it was going to be a modern bolted face climb and popular, if at all possible.
After swinging around, chopped holes were discovered just to the right of the arete. Since bolted squeeze jobs next to chopped routes isn't a thing... The Green Arete was left alone.
Back to the future. Bolts returned to 'My Opinion' and a A.D.T. micro gear nest was discovered that made leading the left side of the arete possible.
Start up slab below The Green Arete. Below steep face lean out and clip first bolt but stay perched on left side of the arete. Climb tenuous and steep arete moves before a jug rest horizontal. Build a death triangle of micro swag and punch into the steep arete finish above. It is possible to bail out and mantle over onto 'My Opinion' and clip the final bolt if your not feeling the buzzy finish out left.
Never took the fall... maybe someone could push a bag off the top for a lesson in physics. Might be clean fall if the gear nest holds?!
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