Little Edward's Little Overhang
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 2.7 from 19 votes
Type: | Trad, 70 ft (21 m), 2 pitches |
FA: | Ed Webster & Kevin Murray, 1978 |
Page Views: | 1,533 total · 14/month |
Shared By: | Sarah Meiser on Oct 18, 2015 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: NOTE: Access only from Turkey Rocks Trailhead.
Details
No access from the Turkey Rock Ranch Estates neighborhood.
Description
Little Edward's Little Overhang is an obscure Turkey Rocks route that, as the name implies, poses an interesting roof problem.
Start by climbing a slightly licheny, right-facing corner, and then make a few 5.8-5.9 moves protected by small nuts to gain a broken finger crack above. Follow the crack to the well-protected roof, and use a big jug and the #3 crack directly above to overcome it. Finish up on easier terrain to the anchor.
There is apparently a low quality second pitch, but I did not climb it.
Start by climbing a slightly licheny, right-facing corner, and then make a few 5.8-5.9 moves protected by small nuts to gain a broken finger crack above. Follow the crack to the well-protected roof, and use a big jug and the #3 crack directly above to overcome it. Finish up on easier terrain to the anchor.
There is apparently a low quality second pitch, but I did not climb it.
Location
Look for a large roof on the far right (east) end of the crag. It's approximately 30-40 feet off the deck. Begin beneath it in a right-facing corner to the right of The Fiend.
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