Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Sciatica

5.10d, Sport, 6 pitches,  Avg: 2.8 from 9 votes
FA: Rob Owens
International > N America > Canada > Alberta > Bow Valley > Heart Creek > Sciatica Area

Description

P1/P2, 5.8 - Follow a sparse trail of bolts to chain anchors halfway up the slab, then continue to the headwall. Usually climbed as one long approach pitch. Climbing is much easier than 5.8, but likely rated as that because of sparse bolting. Please don't do these pitches unless you plan on climbing the entire route.

P3, 5.10d - Move left of the chains, then step onto a textured face before tackling the roof. Some tricky route finding for the path of least resistance. Probably the crux pitch.

P4, 5.10d - Follow a path of bolts trending right before tackling a large roof with good holds.

P5, 5.10b - Scramble past soil and left of a tree to reach blue streak in a corner. Beware pulling the lip as much of the rock is loose.

P6, 5.10d - Traverse left to cryptic climbing on hard to find holds. Pull a final ledge to the anchor!

Location

See sciatica area.

Protection

P1 - 3 bolts (27m)
P2 - 3 bolts (23m)
P3 - 8 bolts (21m)
P4 - 8 bolts (23m)
P5 - 5 bolts (20m)
P6 - 5 bolts (14m)

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Top of pitch 6, looking down at heart creek
[Hide Photo] Top of pitch 6, looking down at heart creek