Dark Side of the Moon
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 2.3 from 3 votes
Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
FA: | Mark Rolofson & Leonard Coyne |
Page Views: | 1,164 total · 10/month |
Shared By: | Sarah Meiser on Oct 4, 2015 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: NOTE: Access only from Turkey Rocks Trailhead.
Details
No access from the Turkey Rock Ranch Estates neighborhood.
Description
This is a squeeze crack that grows into a large chimney. Establish yourself in the #6 offwidth crack, and work your way upward (crux). Get inside when it widens into a chimney, and take advantage of numerous helpful features for your feet on the left wall. End in an obvious notch.
Protection
Large cams and Bigbros are the only pieces that will protect the first 40 feet of this climb. We used a single blue Bigbro in addition to single #5 & #6 cams; anything less would likely be insufficient. Sans at least one Bigbro, the climb is R-rated. Hand-sized cams can be placed in a crack to the left to protect the upper portion.
Photos
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