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Dark Side of the Moon
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 2.3 from 3
votes
Routes in Turkey Tail
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Acoplopse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Brush Turkey S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Camera Obscura T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Captain Hook S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Chop, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Consternation T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Dark Meat T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Dark Side of the Moon T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Double Trouble T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Drumstick Direct T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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East Side Story T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Easy Offwidth T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Eclipse T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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For Turkeys Only T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Fuzzy Caterpillar T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Gobble This T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Hummingbird Way aka Snively's Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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I Turkey/ Resurrection T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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In Search of Unicorns T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Inner Reaches T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Jello Party T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Johnny Lat S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Journey to Ixtlan (1st Pitch) T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Left Side of the Key T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Live Fire T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Make the Cut T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Piece of Cake T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Quiver and Quill T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Rasmussen Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Roofus T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Second Helping T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Shoo Kitty T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Shoobertapotamai Feathers T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Sidewinder T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Snake T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Spider Lady T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Squeeze Chimney T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Termination T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Turkey in the Straw T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Turkey Turd T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Turkey's Delight T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Whimsical Dreams T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Wild Turkey T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Wudamudafuka (1st pitch) T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | Mark Rolofson & Leonard Coyne |
| Page Views: | 1,159 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Sarah Meiser on Oct 4, 2015 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: NOTE: Access only from Turkey Rocks Trailhead.
Details
No access from the Turkey Rock Ranch Estates neighborhood.
Description
This is a squeeze crack that grows into a large chimney. Establish yourself in the #6 offwidth crack, and work your way upward (crux). Get inside when it widens into a chimney, and take advantage of numerous helpful features for your feet on the left wall. End in an obvious notch.
Protection
Large cams and Bigbros are the only pieces that will protect the first 40 feet of this climb. We used a single blue Bigbro in addition to single #5 & #6 cams; anything less would likely be insufficient. Sans at least one Bigbro, the climb is R-rated. Hand-sized cams can be placed in a crack to the left to protect the upper portion.
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